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Thread: Sanding Question

  1. #1
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    Sanding Question

    In an earlier thread about a video with lot of wrong ways of doing things, someone mentioned the guy was sanding a bat wrong.

    What is the correct way to sand a spindle while on the lathe?

    I have noticed a few times the sand paper jumps back at me, so I don't do it that way any more.

    Is there a Youtube or other video reference for sanding technique?

    Also learned today to keep my mouth shut while turning.

    tia

    jim

  2. #2
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    * Breath protection
    * Without the tool rest in place - fingers may get caught!
    * Gradually going up in paper number (no skipping)

  3. #3
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    Sounds like you've already figured out to hold the sandpaper on the bottom quadrant so you don't jam your fingers. Also, you might want to stop the lathe after every grit and take a few swipes lengthwise with same grit. And if you use micro-mesh, slow down the lathe so the heat build-up doesn't melt it onto your wood.

  4. #4
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    Sanding both foward and reverse with each grit is a big plus if your lathe has reverse capabilities.

  5. #5
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    Saanding!

    Sand with the grain whenever possible, sand between 3-6 oclock on plate like turnings, and do what the others said. Use a drill powered or free spinning sander where ever possible ( PSI is ball bearing, not metal on metal like sorby). Most of all, be patient.
    Bob

  6. #6
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    Thanks for all the advice.

    I have been removing the tool rest since someone mentioned it in another thread.

    Doh! In the shop at the school, this was not mentioned and even though I almost caught my finger a couple of times, it did not connect.

    Like I have said to others, my head is harder than most woods.

    So far, what I have been doing seems to be working. My last four socket chisel handles have not needed any trimming of the tenon into the socket. Well, I should take that back. The last one was about 1/8 inch too long when it was cut off, so had to saw a little off the end then it fit well. Of course, these are all ones that had handles to use for comparing the size.

    jim

  7. #7
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    Jim lots of good advice. One piece that I feel is important is don't skip grits and use air to clean the piece before going to the next grit. I was always taught the safest area to sand was between 6 and 9 o'clock position.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



  8. #8
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    When hand sanding (with the lathe running) consider using a flexible pad to back up the sandpaper, not your fingers. I use a very stiff piece of sponge rubber.
    Richard in Wimberley

  9. #9
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    Jim I use an old mouse pad or a piece of mouse pad for a backer on when hand sanding on the lathe.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  10. #10
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    For spindle work, it also pays to hand sand with the lathe off....sand in direction of grain. This really helps the final finish on spindles. For powered finish sanding, a slow lathe speed is necessary. It holds down on the generated heat. Finally, don't be stingy with the paper. Sharp paper is the key to good results.

  11. #11
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    What is the best electric tool to use for sanding inside of a bowl? I don't think my electric sanders will work for that.
    Thanks in advance
    Eugene in NC

  12. #12
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    Who was it that first said "Use sandpaper like someone else was paying for it"? Have learned to love that phrase.

    Meanwhile, use straight and/or angle drill or flex shaft tool with 2" or 3" mandrel and hook & loop discs. Others may follow here with specific info.
    Richard in Wimberley

  13. #13
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    Thanks again for all the advice.

    This place is great for us newbees.

    I have done mostly hand work before this. Have only been doing that for a few years. Now that I have retired, plans are to do a lot more. Most of the time my posting has been in the Neanderthal Haven. I have lots of "book" knowledge, not enough hands on knowledge. Getting better with the hand tools though. Yesterday, I rip cut about a foot of rosewood with a hand saw and kept it square all the way. That stuff is hard. Turned a very nice chisel handle though. Now I want to rosewood handles on a whole set of paring chisels. That could get costly. My stash is likely only enough for about five or six more.

    Rosewood seems to make my shop smell like a French bordello when it is being worked.

    Not knowing the nomenclature, spindle was used in place of chisel handle. Just figured if it was supported on both ends, it is a spindle (of sorts) being turned. if only supported on one end, then it is a bowl (of sorts). After all, isn't a plate just flat bowl and a goblet is a bowl with a stem?

    I don't think the picture does the handle justice. The shape and flow of the handle is very comfortable for a paring chisel in my hand.

    jim
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #14
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    Jim,

    When the grain of the wood runs parallel to the bed of the lathe it is normally considered spindle work. For most bowls, the grain of the wood runs perpendicular to the bed of the lathe. Some bowls are called end grain bowls. In that case, the grain of the wood runs parallel to the bed of the lathe.

    Very nice handle by the way!
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

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