More fun with doweling jigs

[Gary McKown]

I just wish they had one for 1/2" boards

Wouldn't this just be a matter of adding an extra 1/8" hardboard spacer to the clamped extension?

[Mike Gager]

only thing about phils version is it takes away the one thing that i liked about the rockler jig, the ability to see the center line you mark on the work pieces


i think i will have to try making one of these myself

[Jerry Murray]

Phil,

Great idea!

I just made the baffle fro my DC system and it works absolutely wonderful...now I'll have another project!

[Mike Gager]

alright here is my version of the rockler dowel jig

doweljig1.jpg
doweljig2.jpg
doweljig3.jpg

just a scrap piece of oak and a piece of 1/4" acrylic. i used 1/4 holes for the dowels because i had a few 1/4" dowels laying around

however i am having the same problem with this one as phil mentioned about the rockler version, the acrylic is too slippery and slips in the clamps as you drill. im going to get some sticky sand paper as he did but keep the clear base so you can see the layout mark and see how that goes.

[Phil Thien]

alright here is my version of the rockler dowel jig

Nice work, Mike!

For a center reference I used a diamond scribe to mark the Rockler drill guide itself. I almost always use edge referencing but the center line comes in handy at times.

To get the line perfectly centered on the block, I carefully set my combination square and scribed two lines, one with the square registered from the left side of the block, and the second with the square registered from the right side of the block. By carefully setting the square you can make the two scribed lines overlap, so you know you have marked dead center.

[Rich Engelhardt]

however i am having the same problem with this one as phil mentioned about the rockler version, the acrylic is too slippery and slips in the clamps as you drill. im going to get some sticky sand paper as he did but keep the clear base so you can see the layout mark and see how that goes.

Here's an update/tip for anyone that cares.
I picked up one of these recently - they are up to about $15.00 now but, still a good value for the occasional user.

I dabbed some Zinsser Seal Coat on back of the stock clear acrylic.
Works like a champ.
The shellac is thin enough that it doesn't change the center of the jig on 3/4" stock.
It's clear enough so you can still see/use the markings.
It takes away the slip of the acrylic so now only moderate clamping is needed to hold the jig in place.

I drilled 18 holes yesterday and it worked the same on the last two as it did on the first two.
If/when the Seal Coat wears off, another quick swipe of it will put it back in order.

[Dan Cameron]

Just use a 1/8" spacing plate between the mounting plate and the board.

[Ed Baggett]

I just received the 1/4" version.

Thanks Rockler

[John Hollaway]

Phil, I'm only guessing here, but you appear to dislike pocket hole jigs & screws. May I ask why?

[Phil Thien]

Phil, I'm only guessing here, but you appear to dislike pocket hole jigs & screws. May I ask why?

Au contraire. I like pocket hole jigs quite a bit. I only have one of those little $30 Kreg kits, but it works great and I've built several things with it.

One of these days I'm going to get one of the K3 kits.

I will say that I have had a couple instances of making face frames from walnut where the screws have split the stiles (funny grain). So if I'm working on something where I'm nearly out of wood (that happens quite a bit) I will often use my mortising or doweling jig, just to be on the safe side.

[Rich Engelhardt]

One of these days I'm going to get one of the K3 kits

K3's are getting hard to find.

[Phil Thien]

K3's are getting hard to find.

I know, but I like the design more than the K4.

[Van Huskey]

I know, but I like the design more than the K4.

Agreed, the front vs rear clamping is a big deal to me anyway.