Design critique wanted - platform bed

[James Biddle]

The bed is for my wife's neice and is an adaptation of a picture from a Pottery Barn catalog. I'd like some opinions on the structural design, joinery and any assembly issues if possible. Thanks in advance.

View of the assembled bed.


View with the headboard, footboard, and top hidden. My thoughts are to pocket screw the top rails to the sides from above (covered with the top) and the bottom to the sides from underneath (hidden). The head/footboards will attach to the sides with standard, slide-down bed hardware. The center plywood beam is continuous (dadoed into the base plywood) and the cubby separators slide down into rabbeted center and base and screwed from above (hidden).

[Jamie Buxton]

Have you considered drawers instead of cubbies? I know that adds complexity to the project, but they make the storage space more usable.

[Dewey Torres]

Have you considered drawers instead of cubbies? I know that adds complexity to the project, but they make the storage space more usable.

My first thoughts as well. If you don't do drawers it really needs to be baskets or something that is easy retrievable from under the bed and makes the most of the storage. I am assuming that is one of the main reasons for this design.

[James Biddle]

My first thoughts as well. If you don't do drawers it really needs to be baskets or something that is easy retrievable from under the bed and makes the most of the storage. I am assuming that is one of the main reasons for this design.

Exactly, her mother wants the cubbies so she can put baskets in them and make straightening the room go much faster.

[Jim Becker]

The baskets make sense and add some "texture" to the design that would not be there with mere drawers. Baskets also provide some nice ventilation for the items stored in them.

As to the general design, it looks fine to me. You might consider adding some blocking under each of those horizontal supports in the four corners to stiffen it up...this will have the same effect as the dividers on the intermediate cross supports. These would be hidden and can be made of any secondary material.

[James Biddle]

As to the general design, it looks fine to me. You might consider adding some blocking under each of those horizontal supports in the four corners to stiffen it up...this will have the same effect as the dividers on the intermediate cross supports. These would be hidden and can be made of any secondary material.

Thanks Jim, I added those blocks. I also added some glue blocks above the cubby openings to help stabilize the top.

[John Schreiber]

I just got a request for a platform bed and I've been doodling ideas and looking at plans for a couple days. Since I've thought so much about it, I've got lots of ideas.

Generally, it seems more heavily built than required. Most have less support for the plywood top than this, but overbuilt is the way I like to do things too.

You mention using sliding connectors for the headboard and footboard. If the rest of the bed can't be taken apart, why not just use glue and pocket hole screws? The same way, if it can't be taken apart it will be a bear to move because of its weight. That's probably at least two sheets of 3/4" plywood.

Is there a lip on the sides of the bed? I think that would be necessary to keep the mattress from sliding off.

On top of the "cubby dividers" there is a piece of trim which seems to be unnecessary. The plywood top will be more than sufficiently supported.

Many designs I have seen incorporate a "toe kick" type space, setting the bottom back three or four inches from the edge of the mattress. Probably not necessary for a child's bed though.

As Jim mentioned, if the headboard/footboard is not pocket screwed to the frame, the end pieces need extra support.

My $.03. I'm interested in how things turn out. My daughter and two of her friends are moving out of the dorms and into a house next year and I'm making three beds. Haven't settled on a design yet.

[James Biddle]

I just got a request for a platform bed and I've been doodling ideas and looking at plans for a couple days. Since I've thought so much about it, I've got lots of ideas.

Generally, it seems more heavily built than required. Most have less support for the plywood top than this, but overbuilt is the way I like to do things too.

You mention using sliding connectors for the headboard and footboard. If the rest of the bed can't be taken apart, why not just use glue and pocket hole screws? The same way, if it can't be taken apart it will be a bear to move because of its weight. That's probably at least two sheets of 3/4" plywood. Plenty heavy though.

Is there a lip on the sides of the bed? I think that would be necessary to keep the mattress from sliding off.

On top of the "cubby dividers" there is a piece of trim which seems to be unnecessary. The plywood top will be more than sufficiently supported.

Many designs I have seen incorporate a "toe kick" type space, setting the bottom back three or four inches from the edge of the mattress. Probably not necessary for a child's bed though.

As Jim mentioned, if the headboard/footboard is not pocket screwed to the frame, the end pieces need extra support.

My $.03. I'm interested in how things turn out. My daughter and two of her friends are moving out of the dorms and into a house next year and I'm making three beds. Haven't settled on a design yet.

John, Thanks for your thoughts.

I wanted the headboard to be removable for two reasons; to protect it during the move (it will need to be stood on end and carried/slid) and because they are still considering reusing their old headboard instead of the designed one. Probably no reason I couldn't permanently mount the footboard though. I was thinking 3/4" for the bottom and center divider and 1/2" for the dividers and the top.

I agree with the side lips, but I haven't convinced everyone else yet.

The board over the dividers is intended to act as a stretcher between the sides so I wouldn't have any pocket holes visible in the cubby interior. Overkill?

I'll have to think about the toe kick idea. Wasn't in the picture thay gave me, but may be worth considering.

[Julie Rose]

My young daughter has a purchased "captain's bed" similar to that. The one problem that I really would warn people about (who are making one) is that there needs to be enough clearance from the first opening, or drawer closest to the head of the bed. Most people like to place a bedside table of some sort beside the bed. In our case, you cannot open the first drawer if you put a small table beside the bed.

Just something to consider.

~Julie~

[Colin Wollerman]

Hi James,
I have that same catalog. We love Pottery Barn stuff and also tossed around making this bed for our daughter.
I was under the impression the "cubbies" were modular in some way
I was looking at the sofa too. Same mods, different application?
img9l.jpg
Looks like the End cubbies are a separate unit from the sides.
There is very good chance I am wrong it just looked that way to me.
Just making an observation.
Your design looks clean, straight forward and strong. Something even I could do.
.
C

[James Biddle]

My young daughter has a purchased "captain's bed" similar to that. The one problem that I really would warn people about (who are making one) is that there needs to be enough clearance from the first opening, or drawer closest to the head of the bed. Most people like to place a bedside table of some sort beside the bed. In our case, you cannot open the first drawer if you put a small table beside the bed.

Just something to consider.

~Julie~

Thanks Julie, I mentioned the same thing to them, but they thought it would look odd on the side that didn't have a nightstand or if they put the bed along the wall. Colins pic below shows the issue nicely.

[Colin Wollerman]

Sorry, i neglected to ask the question
Do you think a modular design would work?
Maybe Countertop draw bolts holding mods in alignment?

Our thinking was that when the kid is off, to wherever kids go, mods could be used for; sofa, stacked shelving, daybed, etc.

I am only a few projects into my woodworking adveture. Maybe the modular approach is more trouble/material cost than it is worth. I really don't know but I like the idea.

[James Biddle]

Colin,
I suppose modular would work well enough as shown on the hardwood floor in the pic, but I would worry about it flexing on carpet. I also think that if it weren't designed with all it's modular permutations up front, odds are it would never be used as anything other than a bed. Besides, then I'd be out of an opportunity to make more free stuff for my wife's relatives.