design critique wanted - chess table

[James Biddle]

I'm making a chess table for a tournament chess player who gave me the dimensions he need for his table. My initial thoughts were to veneer the table, but after seeing posts from and seeing SMC's David Decristoforo's work (check out his website!), I've decided to make the project out of solid wood. I'd like some opinions on the overall design. Thanks in advance.

View of the assembly (no trim or drawers have been added yet). Squares will be rosewood and curly birdseye maple and the table from bubinga. Sorry for my lack of Sketchup material skill.


Thinking of bordering the board with matching accents of rosewood and maple. Solid wood top - should I just glue strips to the board and then build up the rest of the top out from there? What about the cross grain of the accents to the top/board?


The legs must be removable and sturdy. Was thinking of bolting the legs in through the corner braces?

[Jim Becker]

Looks like basic traditional table construction and that will work fine for this. Corner bolts would be the normal way to have the legs removable. You'll want to move those corner blocks in slightly so they stay full thickness, however.

[James Biddle]

Looks like basic traditional table construction and that will work fine for this. Corner bolts would be the normal way to have the legs removable. You'll want to move those corner blocks in slightly so they stay full thickness, however.

Thanks, I moved the corner blocks away from the leg a little, leaving about 11/16 of flat on the leg. I'm assuming 3/4" is thick enough for the corner blocks.

[Jim Becker]

That sounds about right, James. You'll want a flat on the leg to make it easier to locate the corner bolt (which is a lag-stud) and the corner block should be positioned to mate with that flush. Yes, nominal 3/4" material just just fine for the corner blocks. In addition to them, the aprons also stabilize the legs once the bolts are tightened down.