How would you create this baseboard profile?

[Wayne Cannon]

It looks like you might be able to do the flat groove and lower ogee with the board flat on the table with a bottom-cutting dado bit (like a core box bit) and a plunge-cutting ogee bit. That would allow you to come closer to replicating the top two profiles with the board on edge using standard (and shorter) bits.

Example plunge-cut ogee bit:
http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-router...57732_30046+50

[Larry Rasmussen]

My reference point is strickly amatuer. I had worked a couple of side jobs framing and lugging plywood at the time I tackled the moulding. If you want 4-500 feet of this stuff it is worth thinking about and comparing costs/techniques. For me this was 20+ yrs ago and there was a new baby on the way so we decided to add an addition to the cabin. There was lots of blow down hemlock in the local yards after the Mount Saint Helens eruptions so they sold me hemlock, I couldn't have picked out oak from pine back then.

I probably only made 1-200 feet. Used a 3/4 hp Sears shaper and a couple different patterns for two passes. The project was a success for the standard looking short moulding I made and stained.

So I didn't log on to give a history lesson. What I learned then was the difference between conception and finished product. Running that stuff through the tiny shaper and sanding the rough spots probably took 10 times longer than I pictured and there isn't an interesting moment in it after you figure out the set up. I've since learned to:

1. Assess the walls. Straight, kind of straight, or snake canyon? I'm still suprised at how a crooked/uneven wall gets shown up by new baseboard and how dang unwilling that stuff is to follow it.

2. If it looks straight enough to tackle remember the relief cuts on the back of the moulding.

3. Can you do a test room? Do you have a back bedroom or self contained area? You may find that you decide on subtle or not so subtle changes in design after the first run.

4. Can or would you want to do the "room of the month" plan? Maybe you could do sections. Cutting the work up into smaller projects might let you use a router table rather than invest in a moulder or custom knives. Heresy here- I think the rule on the forum is you can never have too many tools and I am drooling over the shop fox moulder being closed out at Grizzly.com. Another thing about smaller chunks of work is that maybe you could afford to upgrade the material if you wanted to go stain grade.

5. Consider paint grade in bedrooms and back rooms and an upgrade to stain in the entry and areas you want show off.

6. You have lots of good specific ideas here including the very sensible thought to do the mouldling in two or three stacked pieces.

Luck on the project-

Larry Rasmussen,
Seattle

[Peter Quinn]

The problem with the ogee plunge bit Wayne referenced is its not really the same orientation used on a base mold. Check out something like the freud wainscot bit (http://www.freudtools.com/p-124-reve...oting-bit.aspx) which could be used to make a separate basemold for a three piece casing, or the amana base mold bit (http://www.amanatool.com/bits-fv/54299.html), which can add that profile to a one piece casing in the middle of its field. You would probably do well to make the step between the the base and top cap first using a down shear mortising bit (no bearing type) like this amana (http://www.amanatool.com/bits-fv/45500.html). Freud makes this bit to cut the classic base cap on a router (http://www.freudtools.com/p-206-base-and-cap-bits.aspx). which would require either a very tall fence or a horizontal router table set up.

I think the 'could' aspect of the casing you posted can be handled with the above bits. Yes you 'could' make this with a router in a table, possibly even the right Eureka Zone guided setup. Thinking about the number of set ups required and the investment in tools, bits and time certainly adds doubt to the 'should' aspect of the question. It might be a wiser investment if you enjoy making moldings to buy a shop fox mini molder while they are blowing them out and get a custom knife for your casing, order 3/4"X 7" S4S, and mill away. Much less work doing it that way.

Don't know if any of these ideas are going to save you any money, even on 500LF of casing, but the shop fox machine has many uses should your needs and interest extend beyond this particular project.

[Charles McCracken]

Jeff,

If you want to get close to that profile you can use this for the top:



And maybe the 99-004 for the middle:

[Jimmy Williams]

Why not use a stacked dado in the table saw to get the middle groove and then you could use a regular ogee bit (with bearing) in a router to rout the lower profile? Then use the bit (or similar one) that Charles McCraken posted.

At least, that is how I would do it.

[Jim Becker]

Why not use a stacked dado in the table saw to get the middle groove and then you could use a regular ogee bit (with bearing) in a router to rout the lower profile? Then use the bit (or similar one) that Charles McCraken posted.

At least, that is how I would do it.

I think the OP is talking about many hundreds of feet of this stuff...I'm in agreement with many of the other posters. Not the best job to do without a molder and probably more economical to buy when time, etc., is added to the cost.

[BOB OLINGER]

Jeff,

You need to find someone with a moulding machine or shop that will custom mould this. This is too complicated for a router set up - my opinion. Where are you located? Maybe a nearby creeker can help.

[Brad Shipton]

Jeff: I have done this. If you dont have any desire for a shop full of really nice tools, then I would suggest you buy the pieces. If you dont like this price, find a moulder operation and request a quote. I did so not long ago and was surprised at the cost difference.

If you do decide to build yourself, read the production fellows posts very carefully again. Keep in mind, any jiggle of the stock while cutting results in a blip you will most likely get to take out with sandpaper attached to a reverse profile moulding of the shape. I would also suggest that you make this profile in two pieces. 3/4" stock will not flex to your walls like more of the traditional pieces and scribing is time consuming. I would make the top profile slightly wider to accomodate wall variances and not leave an unsigthly trim. If your floors are not perfect you might end up thinking about a shoe moulding too.

Good luck.
Brad