applicator for wipe on poly

[Jeff Clow]

I have been using wipe on poly with pretty good results on small projects. I have been using cheese cloth as an applicator. This works OK, with the exception that I sometimes get little threads in the finish from where the cheese cloth has been cut.
What would be a good lint free applicator for this that will not shed into the finish?

[Prashun Patel]

I like cheesecloth, personally. I fold it so any ripped ends are hidden. I only get lint w/ cheesecloth after a couple uses.

I've also had luck with washed cotton t-shirts.

The key is changing yr rag/cloth often.

[John Keeton]

I agree with Shawn - cheesecloth folded in on the cuts so no raw edges are exposed.

[Danny Thompson]

Fold a bit of cheesecloth over onto itself until it is the size of a piece of chalk (roughly 3" long, 3/8" in diameter). Take a piece of T-shirt material twice as wide as the chalk is long and fold it so the edges meet in the middle. Lay the cheesecloth piece crossways over the seam of the T-shirt. Fold the T-shirt over the cheesecloth. Viola! All rough edges are secured.

[Judy Kingery]

Jeff,

Like Shawn, I have done fine with poly wipe-on and folded clean t-shirts for the application. On small projects sometimes I use Myland's Friction Polish, but I tend to prefer the poly wipe-on for most things and cut up all my husband's old t-shirts for that purpose - no seams, just squares of t-shirt material.

Best to you,

Jude

[Jim Becker]

My normal applicator is a lint free paper towel...the shop towels in the yellow and blue box from the 'borg. They don't shed and are easily disposable after hanging on a nail outside away from the shop until the finish left in them cures.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I have had good luck using those "throwaway" foam brushes.

[Jim Becker]

I have had good luck using those "throwaway" foam brushes.

For a wipe-on finish??

[Barry Richardson]

Blue shop towels on a roll, (paper towels). They sell them everywhere. And, of course, cotton rags. I often but old t-shirts from thrift stores and garage sales for this purpose.

[Mike Wilkins]

I have used old T-shirts with good success. I have also used cloth baby diapers, lint-free paper towels or shop towels from the big box stores, and tighty-whiteys that have outlived their usefulness(washed of course). Hope that was'nt too graphic.

[Howard Acheson]

Why would you use a foam brush for applying a "wipe-on" finish? The whole idea of a thinned wipe-on finish is to use a cloth and wipe it on. And, the cloth is not just a substitute for a brush. The wipe-on technique is what makes the process unique.

Here is a write-up one of the early proponents of the technique made years ago. Follow it closely for best results.

QUOTE

There are a number of suggested application regimens that are totally subjective. The number of coats in a given day, the % of cut on various coats, which coat to sand after, when to use the blade and a whole host of other practices are all minor differences between finishers. There are some things that I consider sacred when applying a wipe-on finish.

First, you can use any full strength oil based clear finish. Polyurethane varnish or non-poly varnish is fine.

If you are making your own wipe-on the mix is scientific - thin. I suggest 50/50 with mineral spirits because it is easier to type than any other ratio and easy to remember. Some finish formulators have jumped on the bandwagon and you can now get "wipe on" finish pre-mixed. If you use a pre-mixed, thinning is generally not necessary. But making your own is cheaper and you know what's in it.

The number of coats in a given day is not important. Important is to apply a wet coat with an applicator and merely get it on. Think of a 16 year old kid working as a busboy at Denny's you have sent over to wipe off a table. Sort of swirl the the material on like you would if you were applying a paste wax. Don't attempt straight strokes. The applicator should be wet but not soaked. The applicator can be a non-woven paper shop towel, half a T-shirt sleeve or that one sock left after a load of washing. Then leave it alone. The surface should not be glossy or wet looking. If you have missed a spot, ignore it - you will get it on the next coat. If you try and fix a missed spot you will leave a mark in the finish.

Timing for a second coat involves the pinkie test. Touch the surface with your pinkie. If nothing comes off you are ready for another coat. If was tacky 5 minutes ago but not now, apply your next coat just as you applied the previous coat. Remember, you are wet wiping not flooding. After applying the second coat, let it fully dry for 48 hours. Using 320 paper and a sanding block lightly sand the surface flat. Now, begin applying more coats. Do not sand between coats unless you have allowed more than 24 hours to elapse since the prior coat. The number of coats is not critical - there is no critical or right number to apply. For those who need a rule, four more coats on non-critical surfaces or six more coats on surfaces that will get abraded seems to work.

After your last coat has dried at least over night you will have boogers in the surface. You should not have marks in the surface because you ignored application flaws. You may have dust, lint and, if you live in Texas, bug legs. Use a utility knife blade at this point. Hold it between your thumb and forefinger, near the vertical, and gently scrape the surface. Gentle is the important word - no harder than you would scrape your face. If you start scraping aggressively you will leave small cut marks in the surface. After you have scraped to the baby butt stage gently abrade the surface with 320 dry paper or a gray ScotchBrite. Clean off the surface. Now, leave the area for two hours and change your clothes. Apply your last coat with a bit more care than the previous coats and walk away.

An anal person is going to have a tough time with this process. Missed spots have to be ignored. Wet wipe, don't flood. Scraping to babies butt smooth means scraping no harder than scraping a babies butt. Ignoring any of these will leave marks that are tough to get out. Getting these marks out requires some aggressive sanding to flatten out the surface and starting over.

Jim Kull

END QUOTE

Finally, It works better to use a gloss varnish for all coats except the last. The flatteners in semi-gloss and satin tend to rapidly fall out of suspension when the finish is highly thinned. If you want a non-gloss finish, use it only on the final coat or two and be sure to stir the material frequently or you will end up with cloudy streaks.

[Prashun Patel]

Why would you use a foam brush for applying a "wipe-on" finish?

If brushing, I prefer to thin my varnish to wiping consistency anyway. The extra solvent gives plenty of time for leveling, rebrushing, and bubble popping. But I usually use a better brush for that.

[Justin Leiwig]

Why would you use a foam brush for applying a "wipe-on" finish? The whole idea of a thinned wipe-on finish is to use a cloth and wipe it on. And, the cloth is not just a substitute for a brush. The wipe-on technique is what makes the process unique.

Well for most of my work a "wipe-on" poly is just an easier to use finish than unthinned poly. I also use a foam brush. It accomplishes the same thing as using a piece of cheesecloth or t-shirt or whatever. Plus it's easier and more convenient to pick up a foam brush than cut out some cheesecloth and fold and so on and so forth.

I see nothing "unique" about the article that you quoted from honestly. The same exact technique can be used with a foam brush or a piece of cheesecloth. The only reason for doing circular motions with the cloth is to hit all the angles of the pores of the wood.

All in all it's a wash in what your applicator is...especially for poly as the OP questioned. I'll stick with my cheap foam brushes as it works very well.

[Russ Massery]

I found the paper towels "The shop towels" as Jim described. Work best for wipe on finishes. They don't leave marks and streaks.As long as you don't use the embossed ones. I mix my own wipe-on finish now. Made up of P&L#38, tung oil, japan drier and turpentine.