shellac

[Dave Novak]

Is there any significant difference between the dried flakes I need to buy online and the canned stuff from Zinser available at the Borg? If the flakes are better, and I don't plan to apply anything over the shellac, what are the pros/cons of waxed vs. de-waxed? I'm planning on using it on a nicely figured cherry dresser. Thanks for your thoughts and opinions!

[Anthony Whitesell]

The difference between the flakes and the mixed (whether pre-mixed or you mixed) is that the shelf life of properly stored flakes is a very very long time. Once mixed the shelf life is 6-9 months.

I do know a con of the waxed shellac is the inability to put another finish over it. I wonder what the pro to waxed shellac is.

The pro side for the dewaxed shellac, especially blonde shellac, is the ability to use it as a seal coat.

[Howard Acheson]

>> I wonder what the pro to waxed shellac is.

It's easier to sand when you use it as a prime or seal coat.

BTW, dewaxed shellac only needs to be used if you plan to use an oil based POLY varnish or a waterborne finish. Standard varnish or other oil based finishes can be applied over standard shellac.

Another advantage to dewaxed shellad is that it is more water vapor resistant.

All that said, I'm am not a proponent of applying shellac as a seal coat or sanding sealer except in some sort of unique situation. A thinned coat of the finish you plan to use will work as well and you are sure you won't have any type of compatibility problems.

[Ken Baker]

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong - but you use de-waxed shellac between you base stain or sealer and you top coats of sealer. I don't remember the specifics of de-waxed vs waxed - but I do remember to get the bond you need de-waxed.

The Bulls Eye Shellac is waxed - but the Bulls Eye Seal Coat - Universal Sanding Sealer is De-waxed Shellac.

Cheaper to buy the flakes and mix it yourself - but there is a waiting period. So for shear convenience use the Bulls Eye Clear Coat.

[Prashun Patel]

Dewaxed shellac is 'clearer' than waxed, so in theory it'll highlight the figure of your cherry better than waxed.

That being said, I've used Zinnser Bullseye (Amber) on a few projects around my house and the grain clarity it provides is still an order or magnitude better than pigment-based stains. I use Bullseye amber because it's cheap and conveniently available at the BORGs in project-sized containers.

As a newbie finisher I really appreciate how easy it is to apply a couple thinned coats of shellac followed by a steel wool 0000 rubout with paste wax. Like butter.

[Jerry Olexa]

- but I do remember to get the bond you need de-waxed.

Ken, you're right if you are applying a poly type finish over it . Not with other conventional top coats generally.