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Thread: Vise Advise

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    Wisconsin
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    10

    Vise Advise

    I'm thinking of getting a Veritas Bench with a Tucker Vise. I would appreciate any thoughts as to if the Tucker would meet most needs without the addition of a second vise such as a Veritas twin screw vise. I'm trying to make the transition to primarily hand tools and anticipate some carving as well. Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Stanwood, WA
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    I can only speak for the LV Twin screw and it is top notch to say the least.

    Also, have you considered pattern makers vises? (since you mentioned carving)

    GL on your search
    Dewey

    "Everything is better with Inlay or Marquetry!"


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Dayton Ohio
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    957

    I have Tucker

    Things to consider: Ideal bench thickness 2 3/4".
    There must be enought room for the screw and rods to swing and rotate. You can make the rear jaw even with the front edge if you allow clearance for rotation.
    Mine works very well for me.
    ---Eric---

  4. #4
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    Sep 2008
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    Raleigh, NC
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    "I would appreciate any thoughts as to if the Tucker would meet most needs without the addition of a second vise such as a Veritas twin screw vise."

    Depends - Do you want to hand-plane the lumber you use? If so, you will need some sort of planing stop if you don't have an end-vise. There's a work-around for lack of a permanent planing stop in the bench - you can butt a couple of boards at 90 degrees to each other, and one leg fits in your vice, the other lays across the top of your bench that you can then plane against.

    But from the standpoint of carving, I'd think about what it is you want to carve. If you intend mostly bas relief work, the type of face vise you have will make little difference - you'll probably wind up using dog holes and something like the Veritas wonder dog to hold the work, or build a sloped carving board such as suggested in Onian's book.

    If you are planing on mostly "in the round" work, than a pattern-maker's vise may suit you well, though something like the Wilton work-holding clamp (essentially a ball-and-socket arrangement) will be a bit more versatile because you can move it all over the bench.

  5. #5
    Randy,
    Unless your a carver or saw handle maker type woodworker its not a good vise for general WW work..

    I worked as a Pattern Maker for a few years I never liked the vise at all and they where 1st class old models..

    I'd get the LV Twin Vise or Record Clone
    aka rarebear - Hand Planes 101 - RexMill - The Resource

  6. #6
    The Tucker is one of the best vises currently made. It is light, strong, and incredibly functional...as such it is the only pattern maker's vise that has a quick release. I wish I had one on my bench, as I have an Emmert clone as the end vise, and I would welcome the quick release. However after I replaced the handle with a hand wheel, mine is working just dandy without quick release (Emmerts didn't have quick release).

    The Tucker is easier to mount than the Emmert style, and that is a plus.

    The only downside to the Tucker for any use, is the price, IMO. I got my Emmert clone for less than $200, and the Tucker is about 3x the price as you know.

    Most people that buy the Tucker put it on the front of their bench, and use it as a face vise, so my use of the pattern maker's vise on the end is not isolated, some folks such as Maloof use one on the end only.

    The Tucker can work fine as a front vise though, for some, and others will not care for it. I find the functionality of a pattern maker's vise to be invaluable for a lot of work I do. Not just handles, but non-flat work in general.

    2 things you can consider. For just marginally more, you could put the Tucker on the end, and get an inexpensive screw and build a leg vise on the front to use as your face vise, this would be a good setup, IMO.

    The other thing is to use 2 screws on the front and make an inexpensive twin-screw like this one at this link.

    Lastly, we all work differently. Just because one person feels it won't be good, doesn't mean it won't work for you. Use the vise that works for the type of work you want to accomplish, you'll be happier for that in the end. There is nothing wrong with using a Tucker as a face vise, it will work just fine as such and many folks are using them that way. I think they lend themselves well for working on the end of a workbench, being on your dominant side, but I would take one on any corner of a bench, given the choice.
    --
    Life is about what your doing today, not what you did yesterday! Seize the day before it sneaks up and seizes you!

    Alan - http://www.traditionaltoolworks.com:8080/roller/aland/

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Waterford, MI
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    I couldn't make up my mind either so just bit the bullet and got both
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=83328
    A lot of the stuff I've worked on since the bench build ironically isn't stuff I had to use the bench for so I can only tell you what I've found so far. There have been a number of things that were just plain easier being able to twist/turn things rather twist/turn tools or myself and the Quick Release on the Tucker isn't something I'd want to do without now that I've gotten used to it. The narrow jaw side is pretty handy too. I've also used it for hold longer stuff across the bench face with the other end in a LV surface clamp and it works great. For edge jointing shorter pieces or face planing between the vise and dogs, the Twin has gotten all that work. I do have a row of dog holes crosswise and could clamp something with dogs using the Tucker but so far, I think I'd go to the Twin first for that. I may find other uses if I can get back to working on stuff IN the shop instead of FOR the shop.
    Use the fence Luke

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Dayton Ohio
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    Great Job! (Not Chris Schwarz style)

    While I have a lot of respect for Chris Schwartz and his workbench book is good, I'm glad to see someone else besides me is willing to explore other ideas. My bench is very much like yours with minor variations. Chris does not like adjustable height benches or ones with wheels. I believe though that if the bench is heavy enough and the castors secured, no movement will occur. While some may consider it overkill, I need all the "gadgets" to do the job quickly without resorting to shop made jigs to do the basic job of holding. There are some craftsmen out there that can do a better job on a set of sawhorses with a board on top as bench, but I am not one of them.

    I hope Chris and others remember that embracing new technologies may result in successes and failures but will provide a learning experience. Maybe sometimes the end result will be a beautiful bench like this one.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Brown View Post
    ...Chris does not like adjustable height benches or ones with wheels. I believe though that if the bench is heavy enough and the castors secured, no movement will occur....
    I'm guessing Chris doesn't have to share his workshop with a car either. It was either wheels and adjustable height or stay in Workmate hell without a real bench. While mine doesn't move when the casters are locked, it doesn't feel as solid as when it's off the casters, so if I'm going to have it wheeled out for any length of time I adjust the bolts to cause it to sit on the end panels.
    Use the fence Luke

  10. #10
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    Dec 2008
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    Wisconsin
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    Thanks for all of your help and advise. I do appreciate it. This is a great forum.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Dayton Ohio
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    I had same problem

    I didn't like how the castors allowed movement either so I welded on some coupling nuts and installed some leveling pads. It solved all my movement issues.

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