larger jewelry box lid construction

[Dave Cohen]

what are you guys doing for lids when making larger jewelry boxes?

One way of constructing lids is to glue the top on the box and then after it cures rip it off on the TS creating a frame that is attached to the top, however when the box and lid get big enough there will be some cross grain wood movement that I'd think would be a problem.

So when the box gets big enough do you resort to frame and panel construction for the lid like a cabinet door?

Would like to hear some sound ideas for any other options too that work well.

Thanks in advance.

[Maurice Ungaro]

Dave,
How big a jewelry box lid are we talking about here? I made one for my wife that was made similar to a cabinet top, with moulding creating the lip that mates to the body of the box. The moulding on the ends (across the grain) was attached via a sliding dovetail and only glued on the forward edge at the front of the box lid.

[Lee Schierer]

I've done it several ways. Insetting thelid into a frame works, but be sure to let the panel float or the top may warp.

I've also made lids from just a single piece (or glued up smaller pieces) like this:

or this:

[Dave Cohen]

Beautiful boxes Lee

when you've made lids out of single pieces what did you do to stabilize them against warping?

[Kevin Davis]

Hello Dave,

Here are a few that I have done. On all of these boxes I went with a tongue and glue like approach to help with the cupping. On the footlocker boxes they are 12" x 22" and the are glued on one side, the front, to allow 1/4" or so movement. We don't get much movement here in Colorado but if they get moved, they should be ok. On the other lids they are routed and fit into the sides and aren't glued at all. If they expand and contract, there will be just a little relief but I wanted a clean look. Otherwise, on really big boxes like hope chests, I had to go with a breadboard.

Best of luck.

Kevin