wood vibration while turning

[shaun gardner]

The problem is while turning a spindle approx 3/4 in dia i get a lot of vibration at times. Tools are sharp and I am working slow but get a lot of vibration leaving groves all over. I am turning maple handles for spoons. any help is appreciated. Also the length of spindle is about 9 in.

[Bernie Weishapl]

You might want to get a spindle steady. I find smaller spindles that are long have flex and I use a spindle steady in that case. Sometimes I will use a small tool rest and use my finger to give some pressure on the opposite side of the gouge.

[Steve Schlumpf]

A couple of quick suggestions for you: make sure that the tailstock is not cranked in to tight. That can cause the wood to bow. Other thing is to make sure that when you rub the bevel - you do not apply to much pressure - as that again will cause the wood to flex.

What speed are you turning at? Just curious as a 3/4" dowel only 9" long shouldn't really flex very much.

[shaun gardner]

I am carefull to just rub the bevel and ease into the cut. I am truning at 1800 rpm. I am comfortable so far at that speed. I did check the tail stock to make sure it was cranked down on the piece and it was only snug. Is any of this due to bad sharpening of tools? I do use a jig to sharpen.

[Scott Conners]

We might be more able to help if you showed us a picture of the results you are getting now. It sounds like chatter to me, I'd start by using the finger(s) of the tool rest hand behind the spindle to help relieve pressure form the tool. Does it make a loud honking-like noise when it starts to vibrate?

[Harvey M. Taylor]

check that your drive center on the headstock and the revolving center on the tailstock are dead-on when placed slightly apart without the wood on them. if they are off, you will get vibration.Then it is time to bring out the shims to bring them point to point dead-on.If you have a lot of weight on the lathe and the floor is uneven, it will warp the lathe and cause the points to mis-align.It takes some pretty accurate measuring to determine if the floor is level where the lathe is.A laser level comes to mind.Hope this helps. Max.

[Paul Atkins]

Maple is probably the best turning wood for thin spindles, and 3/4 isn't thin for 9" long. Are you scraping? If you can't shave with your tools, they are dull. I usually don't get chatter or vibration till a half inch dowel is 14" to 16". If the handle is straight with no profile, try using a low angle plane (60 1/2) set at a very thin shaving and try a skew cut and see what happens. Should be mirror smooth. Are your bearings noisy? Bad bearing will cause all sorts of problems.
Hope I haven't hit you with too much here. As far as dead center alignment - I set my tailstock over up to 3/8" to get tapered spindles without any vibrations. I haven't used a spur center for 20 years. (That's another thread I guess)
Yeah, and a overtightened tailstock will make things worse. Id like to make a tensioned system where the spindles are pulled between centers rather than being pressed -haven't figured it out yet.

[Jim Becker]

Shaun, also check the alignment of your centers...bring the tailstock up to the spindle with a drive center in the headstock and your revolving center in the tailstock. The points should meet. The reason I ask this is that I agree with Steve...there really shouldn't be any vibration issue with a 9" long spindle.

[Michael Faurot]

Something else to check are all the various nuts and bolts on the lathe. Some of those might have worked themselves loose over time.

I had this issue with a used PSI lathe. I had to tighten up the head stock, motor mounts, pully set screws, etc.

[shaun gardner]

I would say scott hit it dead on with his description. Chattering with a honking noise. the centers are aligned perfectly and no loose bolts or belts. Lathe is sitting on a bench and is resting in a level position with all 4 rubber "legs" touching the bench. It doesnt seam to matter which tool i use it still chatters. thanks everyone i am new to this whole thing

[Dan Forman]

Another thing that can cause vibration is if the lathe isn't level. I use a 4 foot level, checking parallel to the bed, perpendicular to the bed, then in an x pattern. Just because all of the feet are touching the bench doesn't guarantee that there are no stresses on the lathe.

Another thing to check - does it chatter at all speeds? Most lathes will have at least one speed where vibration will appear, but usually will disappear at about 50 RPM's higher or lower.

Dan

[Steve Trauthwein]

Shaun,

How are you holding the dowels? Are you turning between centers or using a chucking device?

Regards, Steve

[Jeff Nicol]

Shaun, While turning thinner spindles there are many factors that have nothing to do with the lathe itself. You say you are new to turning and that being said finding the "sweet spot" where the wood, the tool in hand and the speed of the lathe and how you address the wood are most likely what is causing the chatter. When I turn a spatula/spoon I keep the handle towards the tail stock so that there is plenty of wood at the head stock. Rough the blank down to where you want to begin some finishing cuts, then start buy riding the bevel of the tool and ease into the wood making sure that you keep as much of the force on the tool pushing in line with the headstock. If to much pressure is put against the wood straight on the tool will have a tendency to grab a little as the pressure deflects the wood a little. This is what causes the chatter and the nice spiral cuts.
Make sure to take light cuts and find the speed that works for you. When I first started out I had the same problems but as you spend more time spinning wood you will find your "SWEET SPOT".

Nice sharp tools, grain orientation, lathe speed, rub the bevel, and keep the force heading towards the headstock. Practice with some scrap and it will all come together!

Happy Holidays!

Jeff

[Gordon Seto]

You got very good advice here. If problem still exists, you may want to consider these:
If you are turning between centers, lathe alignment doesn't matter. If the problem is gone, then it is your lathe or chuck alignment.
How far is your tool rest, and what size tool are you using? If you are using a long tool rest that prevent you to bring it close and small tool with long overhang is also a chattering factor.
Different density in wood, such as a knot is also a factor.
If the chattering starts, you have to go back to the area before the chatter to take the whole chattering area off in one pass. Otherwise it keeps amplifying.
You may also want to remove the heel of the bevel of your tool. All you need is the beginning of the edge bevel for control. The heel of a hollow grind may be putting extra pressure and resonate with the different density of wood.