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#1
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I have some garage doors which LOML and I both like as they are. (see pics)They got hit with a hail storm and a power washing when they painted the house a month ago and they need maintenance. We have lived here 6 years and never had to re coat the doors. They face north and do not get usual UV exposure. Below is a pic of the doors and a close up or two to show you the condition. I cannot detect any topcoating of any kind nor do i know what was used on the initial staining . What do you guys reco? If I use Sikkens (never have before), should I go with their Ribbol (solid stain), Cetol 123, or Cetol "Doors and Windows" or something else? Ideally, I'd like a one step process of only a stain in that recoating later would be simpler w/o having to deal w a sealed top coat. Cetal 123 ,of course, is a 3 coat process and contains a sealer, I think. Love to hear your ideas? How should I do it?Thanks guys..
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Jerry Last edited by Jerry Olexa; 06-01-2005 at 12:32 PM. Reason: brevity/clarity |
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#2
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jerry, i hope i'm not giving you a blow off, but i've been intersted in the sikkens products as well and finally called them to ask them questions that i had. they were GREAT. i'd suggest calling them. they answered all my questions completely and were very helpful!
cya brad
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The Country Toad Workshop Rogersville, Al |
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#3
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Thanks, Brad. I guess my bigger question is: how would you guys refinish these doors. Doesn't matter if its Sikkens or whatever? I don't want to mess up these beautiful (at least LOML thinks so) doors. Thanks
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Jerry Last edited by Ken Salisbury; 06-03-2005 at 7:57 AM. Reason: removed characters indicating profanity |
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#4
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Hello Anybody out there???
Helloooo (echo) Is there anybody out there???
Guess no one's ever stained garage doors or we should cancel this post "for lack of interest". Maybe this finishing forum gets less traffic. In any case, .....LMK your thoughts!!
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Jerry |
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#5
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I'm surprised this is no sealer coat on those pine doors. Perhaps it has just deteriorated to the point that it came off some time ago. Where the panels meet the rails and stiles - could that be old finish residue, or is it just grime?
I'm not familiar with any of the Sikkens products. I would look for something that could be sprayed and repaired/renewed easily. If they were mine, I would exterior latex them, perhaps white panels with light brown rails and stiles to coordinate with the brick. I can't stand stained pine. |
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#6
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Jerry....I'm sure your predicament isn't boring anybody and I'm sure there's interest but it's a very intricate problem. The stain almost looks like the wainscot I put in my livingroom. I used a Watco stain and Watco wax finish over a bare larch wood.
Are the doors stained on the interior? If so do they look the same? It might be interesting to try and find what kind of a solvent would remove the stain/coating in an inconspicous place. If you can find a solvent/thinner...naptha.....ms.......denatured alcohol.....see if you can remove the stain and finish in a small place. If you can then you might figure out if it's worth removing the stain/finish before applying a new finish. From a ease of getting the job done, Todd's suggestion might be the quickest and easiest. Good luck! Keep us informed about the progress.
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Ken |
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#7
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Thank you
Thanks Brad, Todd and Ken for your suggestions/ideas. I also talked w the Sikkens people and got their input. You're right Ken, it is a bit complicated as to the route to take and all those panels create an obstacle to removing the old finish down to bare wood. Also learned doors like this, even entry level, are +$1000 each. Doesn't seem to be any easy, quick route if you want an acceptable finish w protection. Due to the recent hail storm, the adjuster will be visiting w me next week so perhaps there will be some funds to assist the project. Thanks again. All good tips that will help...
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Jerry |
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#8
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Jerry,
You might try cleaning the doors with TCP tricalcium phosphate http://alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/tsp.html I have been using it for years to clean walls, and wood surfaced like yours prior to painting. TSP in a high concentration will actually remove the finish (if there is any) and the grime, and give the surface some bite. Try it in a inconspicuous place first! <O </O![]() I strongly recommend a product with a UV protectant, and stay away from POLY it will peal. |
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