Low angle tear-out

[Bill Schmitz]

Ok, I got my new LV apron plane, and I love it. It's really a nice size and weight and was amazingly sharp right out of the box (not that it stopped me from honing the blade a little more ). Whisper thin shavings were produced without any trouble! See pics below!

That said, when I used it on some hard maple scrap, I did get a little tear-out. Being a newbie, I think its because of the low angle of the blade setting and 25 degree bevel (at least that's what the written info included with the plane seems to suggest). I know a low angle is more suited for end-grain, but I also want to be able to smooth a little when using a larger plane isn't practical.

So, question is, if I buy a 38 degree or 50 degree extra blade will that solve the problem? Obviously that's much more economical than buying more planes. Again this is suggested in the written info, but I wasn't sure if it was marketing BS or real . . . Thanks for any insight.

Bill

[Joel Goodman]

Yes it will. But I would buy a second 25 degree iron and add a small microbevel at the higher angle. Try 35 degrees and then see -- you can always go higher. You may want to add a small camber to the iron which is easier if the primary bevel is lower.

[Sam Takeuchi]

Although there is no guarantee, higher angle blade 'should' reduce tear out in many cases. Since it's a non-throat adjustable plane, it reduces fine tuning ability, but for something like maple, put in a higher angle blade should do the trick.

If you want, you can just give that blade a little micro bevel of your desired angle and that is enough. If you need to go back to 25 degree bevel, just grind the micro bevel off. But if you are going to be using that plane for many things, it'll help to have spare blades with higher angle bevel (or micro bevel). I have spare blades of various bevel angles for all of my low angle planes (jack, smooth, block) and it's really handy to have.

[steve swantee]

No BS Bill, a higher angle will definitely help to eliminate tearout. Higher angles will require a bit more muscle to push, but you should find a definite improvement in tearout. I would probably go with the 38* iron personally, unless you're working with really figured hardwoods.

Steve

[Derek Cohen]

OK, hands up all of you that use your block plane as your primary plane for smoothing endgrain? And now hands up those who use it for chamfers, bevels, face and edge grain, and a shooting board for end grain?

I maintain that, with just one block plane to your name, most would be better off with a common pitch cutting angle (45 degrees .... i.e. 33 degrees on a 12 degree bed). You will still do a decent job on end grain, but you will now do an even better job on the rest.

Of course everyone should have at least two block planes.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Sam Takeuchi]

I often work on small pieces as well as large, so I do anything from dimensioning, shooting, smoothing and end grain on shooting board with a nimble block plane for small pieces. Of course I would use something else for larger work piece

[Jeff Johnson]

"Of course everyone should have at least two block planes. "

Thanks Derek! You just justified me getting a DX-60!

"But, Honey, Derek said I should have two!"

[John Keeton]

Bill, I don't think anyone mentioned this, but it is also possible the grain was running wrong on the board you were planning. I have pretty good luck with a low angle on face grain, so long as I read the grain.

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks Derek! You just justified me getting a DX-60!

"But, Honey, Derek said I should have two!"

Hi Jeff

Don't tell your wife that! Then there will be a Wives Against Chris Schwartz And Derek Cohen forum!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Cam Livingstone]

If this is your only plane and you considering another, then I would suggest getting a #4 or #5. You can put a lot more push on these larger planes. The extra weight will come in handy when using a high angle blade.

[glenn bradley]

I went with the LV low angle block plane as I wanted the adjustable mouth. I picked up a 38* iron for it at the same time which gives me a 50* option for difficult grain. I do agree with Derek on some things; a block plane with a few optional items can do a bunch-o-work. so far the LV LAB, 38* blade and tote along with a medium shoulder plane have done most of my plane work.

[Bill Schmitz]

Originally Posted by John Keeton

Bill, I don't think anyone mentioned this, but it is also possible the grain was running wrong on the board you were planning. I have pretty good luck with a low angle on face grain, so long as I read the grain.

Thanks, John. I tried it in both directions and had tear out both ways.

Thanks for all the good suggestions. I'll probably buy the 38 degree.

Thanks,
Bill