Platter question

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Hi All, What's the best way to first attach a platter to the lathe? I have a NOVA chuck and was thinking of just gluing a round disc to the top of the blank and then onto the Nova chuck. I then would do a recess on the bottom , finish the bottom , and then turn it around to do the inside. Make sense? Any other ways you do this?

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use a face plate to start and cut a recess in the bottom. I finish as much of the backside as I can then finish the top or front. I mount in a donut chuck to finish the bottom.

[Kim Ford]

I glue a threaded waste block to the back. Completely turn and finish the platter. Then use the vacuum chuck to turn off the waste block and finalize the foot.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

This is a new one on me. Thanks

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Originally Posted by Bernie Weishapl

I use a face plate to start and cut a recess in the bottom. I finish as much of the backside as I can then finish the top or front. I mount in a donut chuck to finish the bottom.

Thanks Bernie. I was thinking of doing what you say but I wasn't sure about the screw length since the blank is only 3/4" or so. You must have some very short screws but your method sounds good if you have them. Easy, I like that.

[curtis rosche]

i threaded waste block is a waste block that has threads that fit your lathe. when you are done, you part it off and reuse it for your next project. normaly made out of a hard wood so that it doesnt strip. i beleive this is what he is refering to.

for a platter. i use a faceplate or drill a hole that fits my chuck as a recess. if i go with a faceplate, i turn the outside and put a recess on it then chuck it up. if i drill a hole for my chuck, i use that as the bottom depending on the shape of your platter you wont need to remove the recess. just leave it as a foot

[Toney Robertson]

Originally Posted by Alan Tolchinsky

Thanks Bernie. I was thinking of doing what you say but I wasn't sure about the screw length since the blank is only 3/4" or so. You must have some very short screws but your method sounds good if you have them. Easy, I like that.

If your blank is only 3/4" thick then I would think that would eliminate using a faceplate unless you are making the platter very thin.

When I have done this I have glue a waste block on it an THEN used a faceplate to turn the bottom side with a recess.

Good luck.

Toney

[George Morris]

I use at least 1" material for platters. I turn between center and put a tenon on for my chuck. Then chuck platter to lathe. and turn front to finish. Jamb chuck on a pc of ply attached to faceplate then turn down tenon to nub. cut off and sand flush. G

[Thom Sturgill]

Glue on a waste block and turn between centers to size the block. Reverse and mount the waste block in a chuck, turn and finish the inside. Reverse again and use a vacuum chuck (or a jam chuck, but then you need to keep the tailstock up against it and turn the waste block down to a nub). Use an MT adapter to center on the VC. Turn off the waste block and finish the bottom.

[Ryan Baker]

Since your blank is only 3/4", a glue block is probably the best way to get started.

If your blank was thicker, you have more options. The face plate is one. Using the worm screw is another. If the screw is too long, you can add a spacer to shorten the length of screw protruding.

[Jon Behnke]

I use a wood worm screw, you have to make a plywood shim so the screw only goes in a 1/4" or so. Turn a recess in the bottom, you only need 3/32" deep, dove tail the recess. Sand the bottom after it's turned. Turn it around and put it on the chuck in expansion mode and turn the top. Use light cuts, the chuck actually holds very well in expansion mode. I think there is a formula for the diameter of the recess to the diameter of the finished platter but I don't remember what it is. I've turned 9" to 10" platters this way.

[Belton Garvin]

When I use thin stock...like 3/4, I just start between centers by itself. Round off the corners and cut in a small 1/4" recess on the tail stock side (bottom). Flip it over and use a 4 jaw chuck in expansion mode. Turn top to completion this way and most of the bottom profile. Flip platter back over and use friction fit jamb chuck made from a 3" PVC coupler and pad to dress up the bottom with the exception of the small spot left by the tail stock. Remove from lathe and sand small spot left by tail stock with dremel and by hand. Ideally you could use a vacuum chuck and dress the bottom on the lathe, but I don't have a vacuum setup yet.

I've never been much for wasting wood with a face plate (even with a waste block). The worm screw or faceplate work well with bowls since the inside is deep enough for the holes to be turned away. Platters lack the depth most of the time.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Originally Posted by Alan Tolchinsky

Thanks Bernie. I was thinking of doing what you say but I wasn't sure about the screw length since the blank is only 3/4" or so. You must have some very short screws but your method sounds good if you have them. Easy, I like that.

Alan I guess I haven't turned any 3/4" material but would use screws that only come out about 1/4". You could use a worm screw like was mentioned with spacers so it would only go in about a 1/4". Most of the stock I use is 5/4 to 8/4 stock.

You can get taps to cut threads in a glue block from Woodcraft that taps the wood either 1 X 8 or 1 1/4 X 8. Screw the block right onto the spindle of your headstock. I just got my taps and haven't had a chance to use them yet.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Thanks for the info. I wound up gluing a round block onto the blank and starting that way. I will make a tenon or recess and go from there. I'm Interested in trying some of the techniques you've mentioned here especially the threaded waste blocks. I'd be interested to see how you like them Bernie.