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#1
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Spindel turning vs. bowls
Hi All, I've done a fair number of bowls but haven't as yet done that much spindle type work. I'm making a pepper mill and had the hardest time making my spindle gouge work. It kept bouncing all over the place. I was trying to cut some very dry walnut. I went to my rough out gouge and that worked a lot better. I have a fairly pointy end on my spindle gouge. Could that be it?
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Alan T. Thank God for every day you live that is pain free. |
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#2
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I don't do a whole lot of spindle turning and have had some issues with using a spindle gouge after getting used to bowl gouge work. Spindle gouges are normally ground with a lower angle (longer bevel) and that affects how the tool should be presented to the wood. Keeping the bevel rubbing may require that you lower the handle end more than you do with a bowl gouge. Try going back to the basics; Anchor, Bevel, Cut
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#3
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My spindle gouges has a rounded end on them. If it is pointy you need to work more on the point and then take very light cuts when you swing the gouge around to the wings. I actually lift my gouge so that it is barely touching the wheel when I swing to the wings.
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Bernie Genius is one per cent inspiration, ninety-nine per cent perspiration. |
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#4
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Also check the height of the tool rest, along with what the others have said.
I use more of a point type profile on detail work, with very light cuts. Roy
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Walk fast and look worried. |
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#5
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Now this is where we need a video. I'd make one and post it if I knew a good hosting site that doesn't compress the heck out of it. Any suggestions? I'd show you how to use both gouges with good results. The skew is not on the menu however ----
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#6
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Alan!
This week I made a small brush handle, all spindle turning. The first I've done in a lot of years. The thing that Wirked was go only cut towards the center ,(downhill), and never from the center out, (uphill). I have no point on the gauge, only a rounded profile. I hope this will help some.
![]() Bob
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Bob Hainstock |
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#7
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Thanks guys, I think I'm beginning to get it. My spindle gouge has a fairly sharp point on it. I did try it on some pine and it cut really well. But I'm going to reduce the point on it and try cutting again. I tried to shape it too much like my bowl gouge before and I don't think it works well like that. Thanks for the ideas all. I'm going to get a pic to show you.
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Alan T. Thank God for every day you live that is pain free. |
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#8
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Alan - if the roughing gouge worked and the spindle gave you fits - I would have to think that the pointed end was your problem area and that the tool rest was at the right height. Looking forward to seeing photos of the grind - it would help figuring out the problem.
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Steve “You never know what you got til it's gone!”
Please don’t let that happen! Become a financial Contributor today! |
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#9
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Photos of the grind
Here you go Steve. What do you guys think?
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Alan T. Thank God for every day you live that is pain free. |
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#10
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Alan - if it were mine, I would sweep the wings back a little more by rolling the gouge while sharpening. Here is a great reference for grinds - see what you think: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/wo...dfs/tormek.pdf
__________________
Steve “You never know what you got til it's gone!”
Please don’t let that happen! Become a financial Contributor today! |
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#11
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Alan, check the angle you have that ground at the tip. It looks a little steep to me but that's just my opinion. I do a fair amount of spindle work (peppermills, pens, wands, honey dippers etc) and if I was to keep the gouge the way you have it, I would definately be lowering the tool rest some. I like everything else you've done regarding the tip (point vs round) and the wings.
My 2 cents and I probably owe you some change. Steve |
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#12
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I would grind the front bevel back a bit more. From your picture is looks more like a bowl gouge bevel. I have multiple spindle gouges and the sharp pointed ones I use to get into deep places and do not use it to round up the blank at all. The spindle roughing gouge is what I use to round up the blank and then I use the more "pointy" ones for making beads and decorative cuts. I also agree with bringing the wings back more. That also helps in close quarters.
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Randy Much Work Remains To Be Done Before We Can Announce Our Total Failure to Make Any Progress |
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#13
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Thanks Steve and Steve. My point looks more pointed than the pics and as the caption says this may limit its usefulness. I'll have to check the angle. I sharpen it using the same jig and wolverine as I do my Irish grind bowl gouge. Is this correct? Thanks for your help. Alan
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Alan T. Thank God for every day you live that is pain free. |
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#14
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Quote:
On one of the forums there was a post indicating that Bill Grumbine was doing another DVD with an emphasis on spindle turning. I don't know whether the project is still going forward or when it might be available. YouTube has Jet Basics videos, one of which focuses on spindle turning, and Popular Woodworking has a video on spindle turning (to buy) by Steve Shanesy: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/ar...rning_trailer/
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Tage Frid: The easiest thing in the world is to make mistakes. |
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#15
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Quote:
Yes and no. Yes, the angle on my vari-grind is the same for spindle or bowl gouges. No, the angle is different relative to the wheel because I move the Wolverine base arm in about 1". That works for me and my set up. My grinder is a 6" and I do not even have a wolverine. I rigged up something similar and use a varigrind holder. Make sense? Steve |
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