Hollow forms for beginner

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Hi All,

What's a good way to get into doing hollow forms. I've done lots of bowls and some spindle turning. I've made boring bars, one with a straight bit and one with an angled one. What else should I get to begin hollowing and what projects should I attempt to make just for learning sake? Thanks for any and all ideas. Alan

[Jeff Nicol]

Alan, I guess I would turn a shape that you like that is not to long and start a hole in the end that you think is with in your tools and skills range and start hollowing! That is what I did, just practice on anything to get the feel of how it feels to turn blind and listen to the wood as the sound will change as the sidewalls get thinner. A gooseneck tool or a bent tool is a must to get good results in wider than tall pieces so look into that. There are lots of videos out there that have great tutorials. I plan on making one this weekend and get it on youtube.

Have fun,

Jeff

[Dennis Ford]

For just learning how the boring tool cuts, I would recommend using it to do the inside of an open bowl shape. This way you will see what is going on. Try it with the toolrest at different distances and you will learn how that affects how much wood you can take off at a time. When doing hollowing, you can't see the tool so it will help to have an mental picture of the action.
Once you try it on a hollow form, stop often and clear the shavings. Excess shavings inside the form can grab the bar, then it gets ugly really fast (voice of experience).

[Ryan Baker]

Dennis is right. Playing with your hollowing tools on an open form first will give you a good chance to get the feel for the tools while you can actually see what is happening. Otherwise, it's pretty much a matter of diving in and learning as you go. Just take it slowly and you will do fine. Start out with a shape that isn't too extreme, and greener wood will make it easier and reduce the severity of the inevitable catches.

[Bernie Weishapl]

You have got some good advice. I would add do a smaller HF and with a wider opening for your first. As you gain experience you can go bigger with smaller openings. Only tool I would add would be a swan neck unit.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

One thing Lyle Jamieson points out in his video...

Work from the outside in.....meaning...you can drill a hole to the depth you want the bottom to be....but then hollow to final thickness closest to the mouth first. If you were to hollow to final thicknest near the bottom, you wouldn't have support to hollow near the mouth...so hollow to final thickness as you work you way towards the bottom of the vessel.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Thanks so much. And Jeff I've seen your Wooden Nichol stuff on You Tube and it's great. That tool with the drill bit is great! Now I'm off to find more tools.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Originally Posted by Ken Fitzgerald

One thing Lyle Jamieson points out in his video...

Work from the outside in.....meaning...you can drill a hole to the depth you want the bottom to be....but then hollow to final thickness closest to the mouth first. If you were to hollow to final thicknest near the bottom, you wouldn't have support to hollow near the mouth...so hollow to final thickness as you work you way towards the bottom of the vessel.

That makes sense Ken. It sounds like the same thing as working on bowls. I always finished the outside first and kept the center of the bowl thick for good support. Thanks for the tip.

[Mike Peace]

I think potpourri bowls with a somewhat closed form but with a fairly large opening are good hollowing starter projects. Here is an example.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Is there a good method of checking on wall thickness? I've only heard of using laser guides so far but is there something like you use for bowls?

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Originally Posted by Mike Peace

I think potpourri bowls with a somewhat closed form but with a fairly large opening are good hollowing starter projects. Here is an example.

Mike that's a great idea! It has a nice big opening and good dimensions. Very nice bowl btw. Alan

[Richard Madison]

Alan,
I made some crude wall thickness calipers from scrap acrylic plastic, but there are many commercially available versions. For small pieces your thumb and finger make a very effective thickness gage.

[Terry Quiram]

Alan

A good way to get started is by making mini hollow forms using home made tools. I made tools from old allen wrenches. I used a MAP torch to heat for bending and a 2" strip sander to flatten and shape. I sharpen them with a couple strokes across a diamond hone. The minis are good practice for form and you don't have to worry so much about wall thickness. The hole is too small for anyone to stick a finger inside and feel the finish. Plus if you trash one you aren't out a lot of time. You can finish them with friction polish like HUT. Make sure you shape both sides of the tip so you can cut with a push and pull cut. You will also need to make an allen wrench tool that is straight.

The largest of the group of 5 is 2" tall. The front three are from a 2x4 that had blue stain. The larger 2 are 5" max tall.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

That's very cool Terry. I like the mini HF's you've done there. You'd think they were bigger if you hadn't given the dimensions. Thanks for sharing.

[Ben Brown27]

Originally Posted by Mike Peace

I think potpourri bowls with a somewhat closed form but with a fairly large opening are good hollowing starter projects. Here is an example.

I'll second this idea. also doing some simple undercut bowls will allow you to create some new shapes while still having a large opening to see what's going on inside the bowl. Make the top opening a little smaller with each one you make, and eventually it will no longer be a bowl