Have Jessem sliding table, need new saw. Matter how far sliding table edge to blade?

[Larry Rasmussen]

Rockler is closing the Jessem sliding tables out, all the Jessem products I think actually per my local store manager. He matched the web price of $399 so I purchased the slider, an item I've wanted for some time.

I've been getting around to replacing my little Bosch worksite saw, the 4000. It's really been a nice little saw but I miss the cast iron and want to try my hand at some projects that call for a little more accuracy to put together properly. I use a Festool and guide for larger plywood pieces but it will be nice to be able to put cabinet door size stuff on the slider. It will mostly be for crosscutting hardwood.

So one thing I've been wondering about is how much the non moving table saw top space between the sliding table and saw blade will seem to drag or pull the workpiece. I know the miter fence extends to the blade but intuitively I feel like I want there to be as little non moving table in between blade and guide as possible.

Budget varies depending on if financing available. I only put on a card these days if there is a no interest deal going. Sears has their saws and the Jet line on sale this month with twelve months zero interest and the Jets are delivered free of charge. I've been looking at the Jet Pro Shop hybrid with cast iron wings for $899 delivered.

The nice thing about the Jet Pro Shop is a slightly left of center blade placement in the table making it 7" from blade to table edge. The Jet Delux range with the cool riving knife and larger motor has a distance of 10" blade to edge as does the Sears cabinet type saw they're closing out. I have been also interested in the Grizzly GO661 because of the riving knife and it looks like that blade will also be the typical 10" from edge.

How much of a factor is this distance when using one of these tables? The little Pro Shop just looks made for the sliding table application. Anybody got a two cents worth on this? Would you likely notice a difference while cutting anyway with the table 3" more or less to the left?

Last, since I'm starting from scratch anyone like to suggest a table saw that just works particularly well with the Jessem Sliding Table set up? Thanks in advance for any comments or info.

Larry Rasmussen
Seattle

[Dan Forman]

I have one on a Unisaw, and I think they are designed to work with standard table saw spacing. I'd go for the riving knife and more powerful motor, rather than the off center blade. I think some people even bolt them to the extension table rather than cut their fence to accommodate the slider. I wouldn't recommend that, but I know at least one fellow who did it.

Dan

[Larry Rasmussen]

Thanks Dan. Yes it is clear that these sliding tables were designed to be used with half the table top between them and the blade. Maybe it's just after so many years of using a sliding table, mostly home made full width ones, it just seems imbalanced somehow. Thanks for the nudge.

On the other hand the riving knife is a really worthy item to want to include for me. I have used table saws without blade guard for 30 years or so and am perfectly comfortable running without any blade guard. However once I started looking at it more closely and tried a splitter on my zero clearance insert I became a true believer in the Riving Knife concept. It's not so much the safety as the ease of use and better results. It ads to the pleasure of the work process when outcome is more predictable and the rip cuts are less struggle.

That said since I am still in the shopping phase has anyone got an opinion or experience to help with my selection of a new table saw to match up with a Jessem Sliding Table? I'm looking at a Jet Deluxe cabinet saw with Riving knife and 30" fence, 3hp motor for $1899 made accessable due to a one year same as cash offer from Sears. Another choice is the Grizzly contractor model GO661 for about $800. I can borrow a bud's pick up and roll up to get it, oh yeah and tax, so make it $875. Has 2hp motor and riving knife. My use is heavy hobbiest use.

Anyhow thanks in advance for any thoughts,
Larry Rasmussen
Seattle

[Brian Walter]

Larry,
I have the Jessem slider and like it a lot, but I still find myself reaching for my miter gauge a lot as it's more convenient than attaching and un-attaching the sliders fence. I also found it a little hard to get the fence set at exactly 90 degrees as the the two hold down bolts are so close together that just the slightest movement makes a big change.

As far as the distance from the edge of the saw to the blade is concerned, I would agree that a smaller distance would be nicer. On a few occasions I have placed a sheet of MDF or plywood under the board I was cutting so that it wouldn't be sliding on the table top and scratching it up, similar to how a typical sled works.

One thing to look out for with a saw who's table edge is closer to the blade would be the distance from the miter slot to the blade. I think almost all of the tenoning jigs are made to work with the standard table top that is 10" from edge of saw to the blade and whatever the standard distance from miter slot to blade is. So if you get a saw with a shorter distance to the blade, check the miter slot distance to make sure a tenoning jig will work.

Brian Walter

[Paul Johnstone]

Originally Posted by Larry Rasmussen

Rockler is closing the Jessem sliding tables out, all the Jessem products I think actually per my local store manager. He matched the web price of $399 so I purchased the slider, an item I've wanted for some time.

I am using a jessem sliding table on a Delta contractor's saw.

I bolted it directly to the saw. I wouldn't recommend bolting it to a cast iron wing on the left. Yeah, some people do it, but I would think it would be much more difficult to keep it aligned that way.

It took maybe 4 hours to get it assembled and perfectly lined up. I am not super anal retentive, so I have not checked it since (had it maybe 2 years). However, it is still crosscutting things square enough for my projects. If it is off by 1/10000 of a degree, I have not noticed.

Congratulations, I think you will really like this.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Sorry, but I want to hijack this thread for a bit. How does the slider compare to a pre-made sled like the Incra sled? I'm having a hard time making my own and am tired of my 89.5 degree sled... I'm thinking of buying the Jessum slider atachment or the Incra sled.

[Dick Sylvan]

Originally Posted by Larry Rasmussen

Thanks Dan. Yes it is clear that these sliding tables were designed to be used with half the table top between them and the blade. Maybe it's just after so many years of using a sliding table, mostly home made full width ones, it just seems imbalanced somehow. Thanks for the nudge.

I don't know if this makes any difference, but the Euro sliding tables are right next to the blade, so I would think that means it is better to be closer to the blade to reduce the friction caused by the cast iron table.

[Larry Rasmussen]

Originally Posted by Kyle Iwamoto

Sorry, but I want to hijack this thread for a bit. How does the slider compare to a pre-made sled like the Incra sled? I'm having a hard time making my own and am tired of my 89.5 degree sled... I'm thinking of buying the Jessum slider atachment or the Incra sled.

Kyle the last full size saw I had was a Grizzly Contractor saw bought 6-7 years ago, maybe the next one up from the cheapest. I got a Incra Miter Jig 3000 or something like that, and the extra piece to go on the right hand side. It was still only 89.5. Well maybe 89. 8 degrees but not better than my best home made effort except for the details like the stops and miter gage and so on. Eventually figured out that the two miter grooves on the saw were not quite parallel and I was fighting that fact of life. I just started cutting stuff with my sliding miter saw and eventually the festool circular saw when I needed a cross cut. I'm thinking the Jessem will be the next big step in smoothness of slide, at least in the user reviews the big step up from a regular home made sliding table is often mentioned. I know folks get wonderful results from their sliding table jigs but mine have been good but not great. They're not exactly giving the Jessems away at $400 but the high end incras were $200 + when I was shopping for them. I'm used to seeing the Jessems for 5-600 so I was trained to buy the Jessem for $400 without a blink. Good luck.

[Paul Johnstone]

Originally Posted by Kyle Iwamoto

Sorry, but I want to hijack this thread for a bit. How does the slider compare to a pre-made sled like the Incra sled? I'm having a hard time making my own and am tired of my 89.5 degree sled... I'm thinking of buying the Jessum slider atachment or the Incra sled.

I used a homemade sled for a long time.
There's no comparison, the Jessem works a lot better.
I am kicking myself for not getting something like this a lot sooner.
The Jessem is more accurate, more crosscut capacity, easier to set up, less obtrusive, and you don't have to remove the blade guard to use it.

I had a sled capable of 24" crosscut.. It was huge and heavy. Just think of all the wall space you will free up by replacing the sled (if you have a big one )

I also used Larry's rationalization.. I spent a lot on a very high end miter guage. I wish I had skipped that step and went directly to the Jessem.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Thanks for the replies! I guess my sled can be used as "art" on the wall.