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#1
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Orange shellac on Walnut
Built a coffee table out of Walnut, considering orange shellac as the finish. 1st time working Walnut, and have never used orange shellac, very happy with how the table came out, don't want to hose it at this stage. Any tips on orange shellac in general, and its use on Walnut in particular? I'd like to use a wiping method of application.
TIA Dan Last edited by Dan Mitchell; 11-11-2009 at 3:34 AM. |
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#2
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2 Coats
I used it on a small jewerly box several years ago. I thought it looked good. Don't go more than 2 coats. (I brushed on.) Finishing many times comes down to personal preference. FYI, I used Bulls Eye premixed orange shellac. You can also mix your own combining blonde and orange flakes to customize color.
Good luck. Ed
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Ed Gibbons Last edited by Ed Gibbons; 11-11-2009 at 10:24 AM. |
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#3
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Test on scrap first.
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#4
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Quote:
FYI - on my test piece, I felt that 3 coats of garnet was what I wanted, and more than that started to get a step too far. My padding leaves very thin coats, and I wanted a little more build, so I ended with a couple coats extra pale..
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"Once more unto the breach, dear friends, once more" - Henry V "I did all I could, I did it right there and then. I've already confessed - no need to confess again." - Bob Dylan |
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#5
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Thanks for the replies. I'm pretty new to all of this, doing well with the woodworking part, but the finishing part I really dread a bit. I recently made a nice end table out of Maple & Bloodwood, which I finished with Minwax Tung Oil Finish, looks very nice, but it's a "low traffic" piece & I'm not sure tung oil would hold up well on something that sees more use, such as a coffee table. I understand the orange (and maybe garnet, which I assume is a bit redder) shellacs help out the rather cold steamed/kiln dried Walnut. I don't plan to stain. I have red that Danish oil is good on Walnut, too. What other finishes would be fairly easy to apply (preferably wipe on) would deepen the color, buy maybe afford more protection?
Dan |
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#6
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My 2cents after having done a walnut coffee table:
A coat of amber shellac will warm up the piece, but too much, and it starts to look unnatural. I've since done a couple walnut pieces completely unstained and undyed. I much prefer it. My favorite finish is an oil/varnish blend. Wet sanded in for the first couple coats to partially fill the grain. I personally have experienced BLO to muddy the grain a little compared to tung oil, but it's also more ambery, so it imparts more warmth than does tung. So, you can decide which oil makes more sense for yr blend... |
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#7
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I like the look of walnut with BLO and clear shellac. After that, I guess topcoat choice is personal preference, and may add some tone.
Walnut is my favorite wood, and I have some projects that are 25 years old or so. The walnut really lightens and ambers over time, and the grain differences fade into a very beautiful, mellow look. I have never tried garnet shellac, and while it may really enhance to look of freshly milled walnut, I wonder what it will look light over time. Does anyone have a piece on which they have used garnet shellac some years ago? Might be interesting to see the appearance. |
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#8
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I happen to like the look of shellac on walnut as it gets you to that rich, amber/gold glow that walnut eventually oxidizes to faster. (Walnut gets lighter over time unlike most other woods)
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#9
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Don't think about your finish as how many coats you put on. Think about how much finish you leave on. Whether you rub, brush or spray your finish, a good job of rubbing out the finish will level and smooth the surface. As long as you are using a finish that will "melt" into the previous coat create a soft and smooth surface while removing quite a bit of the previous coat. It's best to apply at least two coats before you begin the rubbing out process. That will help protect from rubbing through the finish down to your bare wood (not a problem unless you colored the bare wood prior to topcoat). It may sound like a waste of finishing material but the results will be something you may never see except on the highest end furniture.
fmr |
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#10
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BLO, couple of coats of Orange shellac, topcoat is my favorite schedule for walnut. I use a lot of water-based topcoats and the shellac (orange in particular) really warms things up nicely.
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#11
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I personally like the garnet shellac on walnut.
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Scott Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly. |
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#12
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Scott, do you have walnut pieces you have done with Garnet that have some years on them? I would like to know how the color is after 5-10 years with the Garnet vs. clear/amber.
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#13
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Quote:
Thanks for the input, Dan |
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#14
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I use mostly Target Coatings products. On Walnut I have used EM6000 and Hybrvar. The Hybrvar I found to be a little warmer than the EM6000 but they are both wonderful products. The Hybrvar is no longer called that but I forget what the new name is. A quick call to Target should get you what you need.
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#15
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Quote:
I am going to finish a walnut plant stand and would like to do this also, BLO, then orange shellac wipped on. Then, could I wipe on a poly to add some protection against moisture? I'm a nubie at all this. John |
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