looking for critique of coffee table design

[Chris Friesen]

Hi all,

I'm working on a design for a coffee table. I want at least one drawer to store the remotes, drink coasters, etc. as well as a shelf to store magazines, papers, books, etc. The table will be in cherry, and I'm aiming for a Shaker sort of feel. It will certainly get feet put on it, likely get sat upon, etc.

Anyways, here's what I've got so far. The top is 7/8" but bevelled on the underside to half that. The shelf is 5/8" thick and will have breadboard ends tennoned into the legs. Currently the legs are 1 1/4" but I'm thinking about bumping them up to 1 1/2" for a bit more sturdiness. The drawers will be inset with Shaker pulls. I'm still playing with things like the exact dimensions of the top, the size of the overhang, etc.

I'd love to hear what you think, any tips you have, etc.

[Jamie Buxton]

As drawn, you're going to have a challenging glue-up. In one step, you'll have to assemble the shelf, all four legs, and all four aprons. That's a lot to juggle if you can avoid it.

You could put stretchers between the legs, running the short direction in your drawing -- that is, across the grain of the shelf. The shelf would rest on the stretchers, much the top rests on the aprons. Your first glue-up is a stretcher, a short apron, and the two legs that hold them. Your second glue-up is the similar parts at the other end. Then those two get combined with the long aprons. And after that, the shelf gets dropped into place. Much easier.

One more benefit.. Done this way, the top and the shelf can go in any time. You get to install and fiddle with the drawer runners from both the top and the bottom, without anything in your way.

[Doug Shepard]

I know everybody does it but I've never been real crazy about solid shelves on low tables. To me they add a heavy look that seems a bit out of place with the low scale. Dont know if the Shakers did any like this, but a grid is just as strong. I've got a good sized stack of WW catalogs sitting on this one
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=15882

[Lee Schierer]

You might want to check the amount of sag you will get in a 50" long 5/8" thick shelf with the load you intend to put on it. You might want to make the shelf thicker or put some ribs on teh bottom side to stiffen it up.

[Chris Friesen]

Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton

As drawn, you're going to have a challenging glue-up. In one step, you'll have to assemble the shelf, all four legs, and all four aprons. That's a lot to juggle if you can avoid it.

I I had envisioned doing it in stages:

1) the back apron and legs
2) front legs get attached to the side aprons
3) front apron gets attached to legs and side aprons
4) shelf gets glued up
5) shelf drops into front leg mortises and back assembly drops on top

The last stage would involve six mortises at once...but they're all going in the same direction so it should be doable. Your point about having easier access by using stretchers for the shelf is well taken though.


Doug: interesting thought about the grid. My in-laws have a table with narrow slats for the shelf that I like as well. Might have to think about that one.


Lee: I don't anticipate vast amounts of weight on this shelf. According to the sagulator I could put 180lbs on that shelf before it sags noticeably.

Thanks guys.

[Dave Shawley]

I'm a few days late for this one. I would make the apron a little wider. 3 1/2 inches is going to make the inside height of the drawers pretty small. If you are going to use a web with supports, then the drawers aren't going to be much more than two inches tall. If you attach them using side rails, you can probably eek out about three inches of height.

I didn't pay attention to the inside measurements when I did a sofa table a few years ago and ended up with drawers that were too short to put much in them. Then again, I should have made them out of thinner stock too.

Looks like a pretty nice table though. You should post the SU model when you get a chance. I always love to dissect them.

[Chris Friesen]

Hi Dave, no worries. I'm still working on the design...I redid the shelf as slats and now it looks kind of like a cross between shaker and danish modern.

The apron is shallow on purpose...I don't like the look as much with a wider apron. I may play around with 1/2-1" bigger, but no more than that. Also, the drawers are mostly for remotes and coasters, so anything else is a bonus.

As for the SU model, it's pretty basic at this point as I haven't drawn in any of the joinery. I haven't decided if I'm going to go that far or not.

[Chris Matthews]

Hi Chris,

I have to say I like the look of your design and am sure my comments will affect that look in a negative way, but here they are.

I would make the legs larger, up to 1-3/4. You are not going to get much tenon length with thin legs and I would worry about the strength if people are going to sit on it. But then I tend to build brick stonghouses!

I would also consider a stretcher along the either the front and back (kind of detracts from that Shaker look) or along each side with a stretcher connecting the sides along the bottom of the shelf. I am not thinking so much to support for the shelf, but more to keep the legs from flexing if sat on.

As far as assembly I would glue up the front apron and legs and glue up the back apron and legs and after they are dry assemble the sides and shelf. I have done dressers in this configuration and they have a ton of drawer guides, etc that have to go in and it works just fine. This also allows you to make sure your front and back assemblies are flat during glue up and then you just have to adjust your clamps to make the sides square up during that assembly.

Good luck on the design. Let us see the final product when you are done.