Follow up on General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Urethane on Walnut

[Dan Mitchell]

So I've put 4 coats of Arm-R-Seal urethane top coat, semi-gloss, on the walnut coffee table I've posted about here endlessly. I thought I'd buff this 4th layer with 0000 steel wool, then apply one more coat. I'm assuming I should wipe the finish after the steel wool, but with what? Will mineral spirits soften the finish? If I used water, and had rubbed down to the wood in a spot, will this swell the grain? Should I use denatured alcohol, or some 4th alternative?

TIA

Dan

[John Keeton]

Dan, there are many others on SMC that are finish gurus, but I am not sure I would "buff" this coat if you are going to put on a final coat.

If you have nubs, one might knock those off, and wipe down with MS to pick up any dust before applying the final coat.

It might be best to let the final coat cure, and then buff with 0000 and wax. Just my thought - which could be wrong!?!

[Dan Mitchell]

Thanks John, I was wondering about wax. The finish actually looks quite nice; not really even any nubs. Maybe I shouldn't push my luck

Would the Johnson's paste wax I use on the TS, etc., be a good choice?

[John Keeton]

That would be what I would use, but again, I am betting there are other opinions on this, so give the thread a little time and see what you get.

Also, you will need to let the finish cure for a couple weeks or so, depending on conditions, before you rub it out. Have you, or could you, do a test board with similar coats, and test it at intervals with 0000 and wax? Might prevent a disaster.

[Dan Mitchell]

Originally Posted by John Keeton

That would be what I would use, but again, I am betting there are other opinions on this, so give the thread a little time and see what you get.

Also, you will need to let the finish cure for a couple weeks or so, depending on conditions, before you rub it out. Have you, or could you, do a test board with similar coats, and test it at intervals with 0000 and wax? Might prevent a disaster.

The underside is pretty obscured, I could test a spot there, particularly under where the legs will be mounted anyway. I hadn't thought of letting it cure for so long, probably a good idea. That is one other thing I wondered about. I'm using an unheated bedroom as a finishing room, heating it up for about 2 hours before/during/immediately after applying the finishwith a small electric heater. It's probably about 55 in there the rest of the time. I have noticed the table still smells pretty strongly of the finish, though it's not tacky at all. Maybe I should move it to a heated area?

Is the usual technique to actually apply the wax with the 0000, using it as a pad?

Thanks for your input.

[John Keeton]

Dan, I have not rubbed out with the wax and 0000 together, but I have seen posts by others that have. Again, I think a test area where you could try a couple of techniques is critical.

[J. Scott Holmes]

Contrary to what many think steelwool is not a good choice between coats...

1. Poly in does not stick well to itself or anything else very well steel wool abrades the finish and does not provide enough "tooth" for poly to stick well.

2. you will leave shads of steelwood behind even after you wipe it down with mineral spirits. They will be trapped IN your finsh and will eventually rust.

3. Many steelwools have a light oil coating that will add to the adhesion problems of the next coat; especially poly - see #1.

[Dan Mitchell]

Scott - I was concerned about bits being left behind, I mentioned the 0000 because the can suggested it. They also mention 320 sandpaper or "a superfine sanding pad" (I'm not sure what the last item is) saying to use one of them between coats. So far, I've only recoated 3 times, no abrasives at all.

I assembled the table & moved it to a heated area. I was wrong, it does have some very small nibs which will need something to level them.

Thanks for your reply.

Dan

[J. Scott Holmes]

Sanding pads are "scotchbite", woven, or synthetic steelwool.

They're OK I like 220 or 320 sandpaper with a sanding block (cork or wood) to keep it flat. Smooth and flat are not the same.