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  #1  
Old 11-23-2009, 1:18 PM
Scott Hildenbrand's Avatar
Scott Hildenbrand Scott Hildenbrand is offline
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Cope or miter? What says you?

So, I've got two 4' sections of cove molding cut... Planning out exactly how I want to lay out the joints.. I'm debating just coping this corner against a full run of molding in the center.

I've got plenty if I screw up, but not if I change plans and screw up that center section of molding.

So.. What do you think? Should I just cope it? Image is of the outline of the fireplace top.. Profile is based off the simple cove molding I made. Not to scale..



I find myself saying this alot... Thank goodness it's paint grade..
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  #2  
Old 11-23-2009, 1:26 PM
lowell holmes lowell holmes is offline
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I always cope moldings. I know people that miter their moldings, but if the molding dries withtime, there will be cracks showing.
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Old 11-23-2009, 1:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Hildenbrand View Post
Should I just cope it?
I think most folks would say "Should I just miter it?" I think coping is the superior method of running trim, and I always cope everything that is going into a corner - baseboard, and wall trim alike.
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Old 11-23-2009, 1:30 PM
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Scott Hildenbrand Scott Hildenbrand is offline
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Should have noted.. I made it our of a double of 3/4" MDF.

LOL John.. I think I've got a fair shot of ruining it either way I go..

My thought is I have a far better chance of getting a good, tight fitting joint if I cope it and just keep adjusting until it fits well.

Last edited by Scott Hildenbrand; 11-23-2009 at 1:34 PM.
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  #5  
Old 11-23-2009, 1:51 PM
Rob Woodman Rob Woodman is offline
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Mdf that will be painted may just as well be mitred as the amount of movement from drying out is virtually zero.
And I am, though, with John Keeton and Lowell Holmes that coping is the better method, more professional one might say.

Don't forget that if you make a mitre cut on the cope end of a moulding, the subsequent edge will show the cope's cut line. ( Just for those who may not know)

"Cope well or you mitre's well not bothered!" as we say in our 'shop.

Rob.
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  #6  
Old 11-23-2009, 4:22 PM
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I miter because my copes look worse than my miters.

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  #7  
Old 11-23-2009, 4:38 PM
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Scott Hildenbrand Scott Hildenbrand is offline
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Think I'm going to go with a cope cut.. Yes, MDF won't move.. But it's good practice none the less and for some odd reason I feel safer doing it that way.
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Old 11-23-2009, 5:14 PM
Jerome Hanby Jerome Hanby is offline
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Anyone got any helpful hints about coping? My one attempt at it didn't go well and I ended up mitering all the trim.
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  #9  
Old 11-23-2009, 6:19 PM
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David DeCristoforo David DeCristoforo is offline
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Mitering outside corners is a "piece of cake". Inside corners can be a PITA or worse if the surfaces are not all flat and plumb and true and square, etc. Coping inside corners gets you around ninety percent of the hassle of fitting inside corners. And the level of "PITAness" increases logarithmically as the size of the moulding increases.

Miter the end of the moulding. The line formed by the intersection of the face and the bevel is the cut line for coping. BUT... if you cut "square" you will have a time of it trying to get the joint to close. So it's best to cut a "back bevel" of a few degrees. Most "field" carpenters will cut just shy of the line at a pretty strong back bevel and then file, sand, chisel or otherwise get down to the final line. It is also common practice to cut an "inside" piece a bit long so that the moulding can be "sprung" between the two ends, forcing the joints tight when the material is pressed against the wall or whatever surface you are applying it to.
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Last edited by David DeCristoforo; 11-23-2009 at 7:07 PM.
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  #10  
Old 11-23-2009, 7:06 PM
keith micinski keith micinski is offline
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Here's how I cope. Take your trim and put up the longest piece possible straight. Then take your shorter piece and cut an inside 45 on it. Then lay your piece down flat and parallel with the blade. Nibble away all of the wood in the mitre and when you are done if you are careful you only have to hand sand or file a little bit.
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Old 11-23-2009, 8:06 PM
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I lay the molding down flat and using a coping saw, cut just under the face profile. !0-15 degree undercut leaves a strong edge and clears the mating piece. What you're trying to accomplish is a 'false' miter. But instead of butting the mitered ends together, you're going to lay a coped edge over a molding profile. Done right, the joint will appeared butt mitered.
If you've never coped, you may want to practice on some short pieces first.
It's easy....even I can do it!
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  #12  
Old 11-23-2009, 10:56 PM
Peter Quinn Peter Quinn is offline
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I doubt I would go through the trouble of coping an MDF cove in that situation. Its a short run, you can dry fit and blind nail with glue, MDF doesn't move much, I have never found it that much fun to cope MDF ANYTHING to begin with. Stain grade or a trickier paint grade installation? Sure, I'd cope away. But for that one, not worth the time IMO.
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  #13  
Old 11-23-2009, 11:43 PM
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A professional trim carpenter explained it to me.

A bad cope is better than a good miter.......... Go for the cope.
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  #14  
Old 11-24-2009, 12:05 AM
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Cope, cope, cope. I cope everything with a Collins foot and have had excellent results. for your particular layout i would cut the short pieces straight into the wall and double cope the long piece and spring it into place. it takes a good bit of skill to cope the MDF with a jigsaw from the back side but that method yields excellent results.

I try to avoid using MDF for trim because it is a face material and not an edge material. one caution with coping MDF, the coped edges of the cut are very fragile and tend to crush easily when being coped and especially when being sprung into place. However since its MDF i can assume that its going to get painted so a nice bead of caulk will cover up any discrepancy in the cut edge.
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Last edited by sean m. titmas; 11-24-2009 at 12:09 AM.
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  #15  
Old 11-24-2009, 12:26 AM
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Scott Hildenbrand Scott Hildenbrand is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sean m. titmas View Post
However since its MDF i can assume that its going to get painted
Now that is a pretty safe assumption, there..

MDF isn't bad at all to work with and does well enough in this application.. It's very forgiving and has done well for this, being a first project on this scale. That said, I'm not sure that I'll be using it again for a while though.

What ever is left will make up my new router table top extension for my table saw, edge banded in red oak for strength and durability.

After this is done I've got a bathroom to gut and build cabinets for... Then a second bathroom to redo with a new vanity... Then a kitchen... With maybe a nice 14' built-in tossed in between for further practice on cabinet carcasses.

Wish I could do this for a living... Or at the very least had more time to put into it.. I'm having fun..
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