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Thread: Installing T-track

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Austin, TX
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    180

    Installing T-track

    Hello Everyone,

    I'm building a tapering jig that uses t-track that I can mount hold-downs to.

    My concern is that the little screws that would hold the t-track in would not keep the t-track from lifting out when I start cranking down on the hold-downs.

    Would screws and epoxy be secure enough?

    Mark

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Central North Carolina
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    1,830
    Epoxy works well, and the little screws hold well enough to hold the T track in place until the glue dries.

    Charley

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Posts
    681
    Hi Mark,

    I had the same concern when I built mine, so I drilled and countersunk twice as many holes.

    You can kind of see them here:

    P1020105.small.jpg

    Mike

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Austin, TX
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    180
    Mike,

    That jig looks a lot like the one I'm building. Can you say Dubby?

    I guess I'll glue and screw it. I'm thinking about going all the way through and using a nut in a counter bore. That may be over kill. I tend to over-build everything.

    Mark

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Rochester, NY
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    Hey Mark,

    I think I got my inspiration from one I saw in a Rockler catalog . The biggest weakness of this design is that tightening the holddowns too much tends to deflect the center of the fence upwards.

    Best of luck!

    Mike

  6. #6
    Mike.... Is there room behind the clamps to put a strip of plywood that turns the top piece into an "L" shape in profile? Attached to the edge between the 45-degree chamfers. That should eliminate all (or at least most) of the deflection.

  7. #7
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    Mar 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Angrisani View Post
    Mike.... Is there room behind the clamps to put a strip of plywood that turns the top piece into an "L" shape in profile? Attached to the edge between the 45-degree chamfers. That should eliminate all (or at least most) of the deflection.
    I'm going to add that to my design. Thanks Joe.

    Mark

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Washington, NC
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    Liquid Nails is all you need. Rough up the outside of the T-track first with 80 grit. You are not making a vise, just a hold-down, it shouldn't need to be really strong if your blade is at all sharp.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Rochester, NY
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    681
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Duksta View Post

    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Angrisani View Post
    Mike.... Is there room behind the clamps to put a strip of plywood that turns the top piece into an "L" shape in profile? Attached to the edge between the 45-degree chamfers. That should eliminate all (or at least most) of the deflection.
    I'm going to add that to my design. Thanks Joe.

    Mark
    Joe, great idea. Mark, let us know how it works out!

    Mike

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Colorado Springs, CO
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    428
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Duksta View Post
    Hello Everyone,

    I'm building a tapering jig that uses t-track that I can mount hold-downs to.

    My concern is that the little screws that would hold the t-track in would not keep the t-track from lifting out when I start cranking down on the hold-downs.

    Would screws and epoxy be secure enough?

    Mark
    If you think about it there is not that much stress on the screws. What ever you are clamping down is applying downward force on the top of the T track. You are not actually clamping the stock to the table top but to the T track itself.
    America is great because she is good. If America ceases to be good, America will cease to be great.
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    C. S. Lewis

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Northern Colorado
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Schaffter View Post
    Liquid Nails is all you need. Rough up the outside of the T-track first with 80 grit. You are not making a vise, just a hold-down, it shouldn't need to be really strong if your blade is at all sharp.
    +1

    Rockler uses screws, in MDF, and ... they don't last ... not even past the first sneeze.

    Liquid Nails would be my choice, too.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    West Chester, PA
    Posts
    231
    One way around the installation of T track. Dado slots on a substrate (I used ½" BB ply) about 3/16" deep and wide enough for the toilet-type jig bolts. Cover substrate with glued hardboard (I used ¼") with spacings over the dados for the bolts. All the thingies on the right are concepts for "hand-holds" on the jig.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #13
    I just built my drill press table and bought the Rockler track. I was following the Wood magazine plan and it stated to use
    #6 screw 1/2" long. But when I use the clamp hold down the track lifted up due the #6 screw was loose. So I replaced
    the #6 screw 1" long and now the track stay put. I was using 1 1/2" thick table with 2 plywoods so I have plenty of materials
    for the screw to bite into.

    Tru

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    888
    I use #2 FH machine screws into T-nuts in my track jigs. They hold well. The T-nuts need a recess and the pic should explain...

    Taper_Jig_Function_004.jpg

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    6,979
    I made the "mistake" of using Titebond II and screws, thinking I could remove and reuse the T-track....


    Wrong...

    Once the Titebond II hits the wood and it swells around the track, it takes an act of God to remove it.
    FWIW - the T-track I used had (has) grooves on the sides. IIRC, I picked it up @ Hartville Hdwe.

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