Finished Project and a question.Long

[Mike Cutler]

I just finished a bookshelf for LOML, and thought I'd post pictures of them and ask a question
The bookshelves are made of Brazillian Cherry and the tusk tenons are made of Mopane, as are the accents that surround the support posts in the middle. The bookshelf is 71"x 72", and the shelves are on 15" centers to hold art books.
I didn't design the bookshelf. It is a copy of the design by C. Michael Vogt, as appears in the book " In The Craftsman Style". My deviations from his designs are; The shelves are wider, which required the radii of the arc to change, the actual case is taller and the use of a second wood for the tusks tenons is a deviation.Other than these, only those changes required due to the size difference were incorporated.
The project requires extensive use or the router and many forms and jigs had to made. I feel I did OK in this aspect, but I fell down a bit on the tusk tenons. My question is this. What is the best technique for making and fitting the tusk tenons,and the coresponding mortise? I spent hours with chisels,files amd sandpaper to get these joints to fit, andI have more of these to make for the library. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[Betsy Yocum]

Mike - I can only saw WOW - WOW - WOW - the bookcase is gorgeous - spectacular even. Sorry I don't have any advise to give you on your problem - but I could not resist complimenting you on your work. I hope you plan on more pictures when that library is done.

Great work!
Betsy

[Dick Parr]

Can't help ya with your questions. Just wanted to say that it is a very nice looking project.

[Steve Clardy]

Super looking. By hand is the only way I know. Steve

[Bob Hovde]

Beautiful! Not having a mortise attachment for my drillpress, I probably would have made router template for the holes and squared them up with a chisel. This would hopefully make all of them fairly close to the same size. For the tenons, I would make them about an inch long at both ends, assemble the unit, and then mark each tenon at an even length. It appears to me that the length of the tenons is what draws the eye, so it would be easier to make them the same after "dry" assembly.

[JayStPeter]

Looks real nice. Sounds like you did the right thing trial fitting and adjusting.

The only thing I can suggest is a LN rabbeting block plane. I have just started to use mine, but it seems like it will be real useful for fitting joints. A little quicker than sandpaper and files. Just have to get sharpening down a little quicker.

Jay

[Lou Morrissette]

Great looking work! I love the design and finish. I think that the hand fitting is where the craftsmanship shows up.

[Brian Matthews]

Mike,

Beautiful work!!

I too have a set of shelfs on my list of "to do's" (LOML approved) that requires similar wedged mortises to secure the shelves.

The plans I found for the project suggest the technique that Bob noted; make the wedges longer than required and trim them to length after fitting. That should ensure an even appearance.

It also suggested making the angled side of the mortises very slightly hollowed (1/32") to ensure the wedges make contact at the top edge of the mortise and closing any visual gap. I am not sure if that affects/compromises the strength of the joint as I have not made that type of joint yet... Surely some of the resident experts here can offer opinions on that.


Brian

[Mike Cutler]

Thank you all for the positive feedback.
Betsy.Thank you for the "wows". When everything is complete I'll be sure to post pictures. It will be awhile tho' That stained glass panel in the background will become part of the door to the library, and doors take time. damhikt
Bob.I'll remember your suggestion when I do the remaining tusk tenons. The original design called for a 6 over 1 slope for the tenon angle, and I made the tusks first as a sort of visual guide for the mortise.
Brian. I had read about the 1/32" concave to tighten up the joint, but in this instance I couldn't really do it. The mortise is only 3/8 thick, and the grain runs with the shelf tenon so you can't really "drive the tenon home" or you risk blowing out a section of the shelf tenon from the mortise to the edge. To assemble the case the sides are pulled tight with clamps and the tusk tenons are gently driven in, as the pressure is released the tenons take up the slack making the joint tight.This is the part I'd like to do better on in the future.
There are over 100 M&T joints in the project. I'll be looking at a buying a mortiser for the bulk of them, but the tusk tenon joints will most likely be done by hand again.
Jay. You don't know how close I came to driving out to Woodcaft and buying an L&N rabbet plane. I think stubbornness cost me a gloat here.