Routing miter slots in outfeed table

[Greg Peterson]

So I finally got around to building an outfeed table system. I call it a system because it comprises a fixed, folding outfeed table and then and another outfeed table that attaches to the fixed table when more surface is required. When not in use this attachable table can be stored on top of the TS or hung from the wall.

For the fixed table, I need to rout a couple of miter slots. Is it best to use a 3/4" bit to rout these slots or should I use something like a 1/2" bit and make two passes?

I haven't used my router much, but as my shop gets more and more functional I am able to start using many of the tools I have accumulated over the past several years. Router scares the heck out of me.

[Dan Forman]

Sorry, no answer to your question (I haven't gotten that far either), but I have also thought about a detachable outfeed extension, and wondering how you are approaching this. Care to elaborate? Thanks.

Dan

[Eric Gustafson]

I will probally have to do just that this weekend. I am building the folding outfeed table that was featured in Feb. '09, Woodworkers journal. The author of the article used a 3/4" bit.

[Chuck Isaacson]

When I did mine, I used a 3/4" bit and made a few passes. Mine is not attached to the saw and I made them oversized to allow or the table not being perfect. Worked pretty good.

[Harry Hagan]

Use a 3/4" bit and "step down" to your desired depth.

[Van Huskey]

Since the dado doesn't have to be a specific size I would just use a 3/4 and take a couple of passes. There is no perfection needed here just wide enough and deep enough to prevent the slide from touching, I make mine a little oversized to prevent a small alignment issue from causing issues.

[Bill White]

I don't even have any outfeed slots in my table 'cause my miter gauge (Incra SE) clears the blade without touching the outfeed table. Be sure to leave a bit of "drop off" on the OF table height.
Bill

[Van Huskey]

Originally Posted by Bill White

I don't even have any outfeed slots in my table 'cause my miter gauge (Incra SE) clears the blade without touching the outfeed table. Be sure to leave a bit of "drop off" on the OF table height.
Bill

You can leave the OF table below the saw table but I just use a large panel raising bit to give a nice slope so the height isn't as big an issue.

[Steven J Corpstein]

I used a 1/2" bit and was able to sneak up on the width so it was snug. It also allowed me to adjust slightly to make sure the dado lined up exactly.

[Tom Veatch]

Originally Posted by Greg Peterson

...
For the fixed table, I need to rout a couple of miter slots. Is it best to use a 3/4" bit to rout these slots or should I use something like a 1/2" bit and make two passes?...

I'd use the 3/4 bit and make two passes. You want some clearance in the miter slots in the outfeed table to prevent binding of the miter bar. Let the accurately ground slots the the table saw guide the bar. Provide oversize slots in the outfeed table to clear the bar.

(+1 for the advice already given that I failed to read before presenting my $.02)

[Stephen Edwards]

Looks like your question has been answered. Here's another vote for making your slots a bit over sized, both in width and depth.

[Brian Penning]

I made mine oversized. Both in my old outfeed table and my later one.

[Greg Peterson]

Thanks for all the replies and excellent input. 3/4" bit it is.

[Dan Henry]

Some thing else to consider is on my out feed table I made the slots so that my large sled runners contact the ends of the slots, this my stop for the sled.

Dan

[Sean Nagle]

My outfeed table isn't attached to the saw either so I made my slots 1-1/8" wide. Keep in mind that depending on the jig in your slot, you might need to accommodate the key as well as the miter bar.