I was lurking because I too have a 36-812 and would also be interested in a riving knife.
Does shark guard have something that will fit this model?
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I was lurking because I too have a 36-812 and would also be interested in a riving knife.
Does shark guard have something that will fit this model?
I was lurking because I too have a 36-812 and would also be interested in a riving knife. Does shark guard have something that will fit this model?
This model can use our older splitters or the ARK type manual riving knife. Send a PM or go to the link above and send an email for some direct links with moore details. Thanks.
ARK is Adjustable Riving Knife. I put one on my 30+ yr old delta contractors...I had been using it for 30 yrs. totally naked as there was no way to use the splitter that came with it. Finding this ARK plus a cover that has dust control, was a great boon to my safety. Kudos to Lee.
Having use the ARK on my Jet Xacta saw for about a year now, the term 'Adjustable Riving Knife' is a very accurate description of how it works. Would I prefer if it would raise and lower automatically with the blade height adjustment? Sure, but I'm not going to buy a new saw just for that feature. It's a fantastic product.
Here are a couple of pictures, one at full-height and another set at a lower height where a non-through cut would be possible.
illl read this over and try and sort it out. Seems to me if I have a riving knife I would need a few heights. I see the diff thickness thing im not going to use thin kerf blades so that doesnt matter. I come from a different time so nothing on the saw old guy taught wooden insert with a finishing nail knocked in if you need it from time to time. I never once had any issues with a piece trying to turn the nail kept it on track, It also was easier than a knife as right away I can see shimming is going to be involved. The finishing nail you rip your part part way stop the saw Knock the nail in and now all your rips are forced tight against the fence as well smooth nail minimal contact point slippery it was like a feather board keeping the material to the fence side tight. Didnt use it often enough but it worked great. Once the nail was in snip the head off with metal cutters.
So times have long changed and have a saw now to be hooked up soon with most likely a riving knife I think it would be called. Ill take it off soon and photo it. Basic question as its new to me what makes one a splitter and one a riving knife, is the riving knife that because its lower and doesnt have the old antic kickback pawls. Pretty old school here no air bags (other than the driver ) in older vehicles type thing. Ill read down all and attachments as well. This saw came with one of them original Generals came with stuff that was clearly quickly unusable making a living so needless they were never on the saw
I realize there are cuts where you cant have a thing poking up above the blade heght, also think in cases just something there even half an inch high is fine but the higher the safer as well. I should have studied up a bit before posting and sorted it out, I did a quick scan see a fine woodwork things they talk about the work turning then show two examples of the cut at the beginning the value would be in showing the cut finished at the heal of the blade and how that can unfold. ive lived that when i was learning and had a premonition and asked told wrong i paid the price for that. Experienced guy asked what had happened told him who I asked and he shook his head and turned red. Bad info.
Warren, the differences are pretty well hashed out in this thread. A splitter doesn’t move and is spaced behind the blade. A riving knife moves up and down with the blade and is has minimal space between it and the blade. Shorter distance between it and the blade the better.
thanks Matt hope there is no chance it ever contacts the blade. sorry I didnt read it, in the hospital all day with the old guy had a heart attack three days ago and finally decided maybe he should check why he was having trouble breathing. your simple break down is perfect but will still scan down for the different dynamics. I might even graduate to over dust collection above and below after half a lifetime maybe time to be normal.
To clarify, every riving knife is not good and every splitter is not bad. Both can be set up poorly or well. If you upgrade to a different saw it should be a better machine, not just one with a riving knife. While a splitter may, if designed poorly sit an inch or so behind a blade, some riving knives are pretty narrow front to back so if tucked right behind a blade, can allow the stock to close up behind the knife. That requires the knife to be the proper thickness (equal to plate or very close ) or the stock can still kick back. Any stock that closes up within an inch or two from the back of the blade should not be cut on a tablesaw. I've seen 1.5" riving knives mated to 18" blades so bad designs are out there. Ideally I'd like to see saws come with knives 2-3" front to back and in several thicknesses. I've made splitters that I prefer to some of my riving knives. A rip fence that doesn't stay parallel is a real disaster in the making and neither a riving knife or splitter might save you from projectile dodging. Dave
Hi Mike, every splitter I've seen did tilt with the blade............Regards, Rod.
P.S. My Euro saw has both a splitter that rises and falls and tilts, yet it's higher than the blade so the guard can mount on it, and a riving knife.
Actually I have 2 riving knives in different thicknesses for different blades..............Regards, Rod.
There is/was a product available called **** (Bolt On Riving Knife - use the first letter of each word) that you can find information on by just Google Searching for this (sorry, but the created word seems to be auto censored).. I know of it's existence, but have never even seen one being used. This is just a suggestion of another riving knife source for you to investigate. It may or may not fill your need.
I have a Delta Pop-Up splitter on my Unisaw that gets used whenever I'm doing long rip cuts in solid wood or find that I'm doing anything where it might be needed, but most of my rip cuts are done with a track saw. so I have found that the splitter on my Unisaw has been adequate for my needs.
Charley
I thought the inventor of the Bolton riving knife past away some years ago? I had a Biesemeyer snap in splitter on my Uni. As easy as it was to use I found it out of the saw more then it was in. A riving knife is soo much nicer.
A few years ago, I attended a shop safety presentation (not just about tablesaws) and one segment covered safety products and the unsafe safety product implications. The following incident was not covered in the talk but it serves to illustrate the importance of choosing and understanding your safety products:
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....22#post1811022
Simon
So I know I am a year late to this thread, but I recently installed the Shark Guard ARK on my 2003 Grizzly 1023zx. Great product and great service from Lee Styron.