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Thread: Over Toilet Cabinet

  1. #1
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    Over Toilet Cabinet

    Wife wants me to make this for over the toilet in our half bath. Design will pretty much like this. I will make it from 1/2" cherry, I think 3/4" will be to heavy looking. My question is how would you make the drawer fronts?

    I am thinking using 1/4" cherry for the drawer front then apply the rail and stile pieces on top of the 1/4 drawer face to come back to the 1/2" thick like the rest of the cabinet. The drawer box will be 1/2" cherry attached to the now 1/2" front using either a drawer lock joint or a locking rabbet joint.


    Scan0004-1.jpg

    Thanks
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  2. #2
    No comment on your question but a suggestion. If it is going on an inside wall, you can make it 4" deeper if you inset it into the wall, you'll have to modify the studs but you get a lot more storage space.

  3. #3
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    Hi,

    I can't help with your question, but have a related question that perhaps you can answer for me while waiting for some help.

    I am thinking about doing the same thing. Just wondering how much concern things falling out of the cabinet into the toilet is...yes, I am serious about this question.

    Of course, put the lid down before opening the cabinet is the answer I guess, but who can count on that?

    I will still make the cabinet anyway...and cross my fingers. Have you thought about this?

    Bill
    Too much to do...Not enough time...life is too short!

  4. #4
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    We have a cabinet over the toilet currently (been there for 18 yrs) and have never had anything fall into the toilet. My son and daughter-in-law have one also and they have never had anything fall into the toilet.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Garson View Post
    No comment on your question but a suggestion. If it is going on an inside wall, you can make it 4" deeper if you inset it into the wall, you'll have to modify the studs but you get a lot more storage space.
    We have one currently and what we keep in there does not need extra depth. We even have spare toilet paper and it fits fine.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  6. #6
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    Recessing a cabinet into the wall behind a toilet is quite likely to collide with the toiletís vent stack.

  7. #7

  8. #8
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    George I've read your post 5 times and I don't understand.

    Are you intending a 1/2" thick frame rabetted on the back to receive the 1/4" panel - glued into the rabbet?

    Is that a bead and do you intend such a detail?

    If yes to my first question it seems to me that the drawer box IF flush to the sides of the rail and stile front can be attached in many conventional ways OR you can make an independent 4 piece drawer box that simply attaches to the front with screws or with the through bolts of the knobs. Of course with the latter you loose a bit of depth of the very shallow box.

    All this you know - so I'm guessing I don't understand your question.
    "... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
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  9. #9
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    Sam, what appears to be a rail and stile around the drawer is actually part of the drawer front. The drawers will not have false fronts.

    Not sure what you mean by a bead?

    Thanks for your response.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by George Bokros View Post
    Wife wants me to make this for over the toilet in our half bath. Design will pretty much like this. I will make it from 1/2" cherry, I think 3/4" will be to heavy looking. My question is how would you make the drawer fronts?

    I am thinking using 1/4" cherry for the drawer front then apply the rail and stile pieces on top of the 1/4 drawer face to come back to the 1/2" thick like the rest of the cabinet. The drawer box will be 1/2" cherry attached to the now 1/2" front using either a drawer lock joint or a locking rabbet joint.


    Scan0004-1.jpg

    Thanks
    George, I think a 1/2" thick cabinet will flex. Stick with 3/4" for the carcass. Attach to the wall with a french cleat for strength.

    The construction is a standard chest of drawers. If I was making this, I would not be using mechanical fittings, and therefore use drawer blades and drawer runners. You may choose to use metal slides to attach to the sides of the drawers.

    These are insert drawers, and so you need a divider. Typically, this is dovetailed on to the carcass.

    My preference for drawers is to dovetail them: half blind in front and through dovetails at the rear. There are other methods you can use instead, such as a lock joint or even dominos.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  11. #11
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    This is a simple cabinet. The shelves will have some spare toilet paper, some knick knacks, etc. and the drawers will have a tooth brush, comb, maybe a bottle of aspirin and band aids etc.

    We have one now that is 18 yrs old and the things above are what is in it currently. In my opinion it does not need to be built like a chest of drawers as it will not see the kind of use a chest of drawers will see. 3/4" stock for the sides etc will be out of proportion for the size of the cabinet in my opinion.

    This cabinet is only 31" high, 7" deep and 23" wide.

    Thanks for your reply and thoughts Derek.
    Last edited by George Bokros; 01-14-2018 at 9:24 AM.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by George Bokros View Post
    I am thinking using 1/4" cherry for the drawer front then apply the rail and stile pieces on top of the 1/4 drawer face to come back to the 1/2" thick like the rest of the cabinet. The drawer box will be 1/2" cherry attached to the now 1/2" front using either a drawer lock joint or a locking rabbet joint.


    Scan0004-1.jpg

    Thanks
    Your description isn't 100% clear to me. Are you saying you'd like to build the drawer box sides and back with 1/2" and the front with 1/4", and then apply a 1/4" profiled front to the 1/4" box front, making the front 1/2" total to match the drawer sides and back?
    Scott Vroom

    If all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail.

    Bernard Baruch

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott vroom View Post
    Your description isn't 100% clear to me. Are you saying you'd like to build the drawer box sides and back with 1/2" and the front with 1/4", and then apply a 1/4" profiled front to the 1/4" box front, making the front 1/2" total to match the drawer sides and back?
    Yes, you are correct Scott. The attached profiles will be made and attached so the drawer front is 1/2" before the joints to attach the drawer sides to the front are cut.
    Last edited by George Bokros; 01-14-2018 at 9:56 AM.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  14. #14
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    George, I think you are spot-on with considering thinner material to construct this particular cabinet. It will help keep things in proportion. This reminds me of the NYW shaker style clock I built many years ago where the case material was thicknesses to 9/16 and I have to say, it made a huge difference as compared to what I might have looked like with thicker stock. With good construction techniques, it will be darn strong...more than it would ever need for the function it will perform.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #15
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    Instead of drawers maybe flip down fronts like on some kitchen sink cabinets

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