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Thread: Pair of Dressers

  1. #16
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    Nice Glenn. Did you use seal coat thinned 50/50 X2? And what is your color mix?

  2. #17
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    That looks great. Looking forward to seeing the drawer fronts pull it together.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Rainey View Post
    Nice Glenn. Did you use seal coat thinned 50/50 X2? And what is your color mix?
    Sorry for the delay in answering. Where I use shellac on the inside areas (to avoid off gas smells) I hit canned Seal Coat with DNA at 50:50. I use an oil varnish mix with some Transtint dye for color as a base coat on show areas. The cherry will color nicely on its own but I give it a jump start with a base coat of dye in McCloskey spar, BLO, and mineral spirits.

    I don't usually use the word "thrilled" but I am thrilled to get back to work on these.
    MBR Dresser (267).jpg
    I was happy to get the base color coat and sealer coat on before my hand surgery. I anticipated a couple of weeks recovery that turned into four. At any rate; I sand the sealer coat to eliminate any irregularities.
    MBR Dresser (264).jpg
    I keep an eye out for clearance on shower curtains of a good weight. I have picked up quite a few for a couple of bucks over the years.
    MBR Dresser (266).jpg
    They make good heavy drop cloths that last a surprisingly long time.
    MBR Dresser (268).jpg
    The "arc wedges" I am using to give me ground clearance are actually the cut outs from my DC pipe hangers from years ago.
    New Shop (308).jpg
    I have tacked (a rag squirted with mineral spirits) all the parts and am ready to start in with the film coat. I am still not 100% so we will see how far I get. I plan to take the process in bite-sized chunks so I don't get myself into trouble .
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 05-20-2024 at 6:14 PM. Reason: 5568
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  4. #19
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    I had to do a repair on a surface defect that I missed. Whatever the process problem was I did it on one board of both tops before glue up. I stripped both tops and am in the process of refinishing them. I have a coat or two to go but since the latest coat is dry to the touch I can make some sawdust.

    I got the final OK from SWMBO on the pulls. They will be very dark Peruvian walnut to strike a contrast with the cherry. I got the final OK on a form that I have used for other people's dressers but never for anything in our house. Here is one with walnut pulls from about 7 years ago.

    Niki CT Dresser (147).jpg

    I think LOML was always unhappy that this one went to someone else. Maybe this is her way of getting some of that back .

    The pulls will use 8-32 inserts for attachment. This also helps with the shaping of the pulls while making them. I use a sort of trammel rig at the edge sander. Then a fence at the spindle sander.
    MBR Dresser (277).jpg . MBR Dresser (278).jpg . MBR Dresser (283).jpg
    MBR Dresser (284).jpg . MBR Dresser (281).jpg . MBR Dresser (286).jpg
    The actual pulls will be quite dark. The one shown is just a mock up to make sure I remember the procedure from 7 years ago
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  5. #20
    Neat!
    I can see those in aluminum or stainless on a deco influenced piece!

  6. #21
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    A little more work on the pulls. Second coat of dye will be darker.

    MBR Dresser (310).jpg . MBR Dresser (312).jpg
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 06-04-2024 at 9:33 PM. Reason: 6774
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  7. #22
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    Very, very nice! Glenn do you spray your finishes? if yes, why do you prefer that vs. brush on?

    Thanks!

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Allen1010 View Post
    Very, very nice! Glenn do you spray your finishes? if yes, why do you prefer that vs. brush on?

    Thanks!
    For small things that will get a lot of handling like drawer or door pulls I will top coat whatever else I do with a rattle can lacquer. For the main pieces I use an old school wipe-on oil varnish blend. I used to use Cabot's modified phenolic that was an early synthetic varnish. It has all but disappeared from California along with a few other decent, reliable products (a problem you can possibly relate to; I used to live in Vista and am now an hour or so north).

    I tried a few General Finishes products and some others with results other than what I was after and have currently landed on McCloskey's SPAR 7509. I blend this with varying ratios of BLO, mineral spirits, and Japan Drier depending on what I am after. The gloss varnish component yields a satin / semi-gloss finish when wiped off.

    GnG Low CoD (287).jpg . Sideboard (262).jpg . Blanket Chest (146).jpg
    This is only useful if you are after the semi-gloss / satin finish I frequently use. For a gloss finish I currently brush as I have not yet gotten good enough at spraying to get a good consistent result.

    GRST (68).jpg
    I am still working on the spraying skill but often fall back to "what I know" since I am getting older and lazier
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 06-10-2024 at 6:51 PM.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  9. #24
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    thanks Glenn- super helpful!

    I also rely on wipe/brush on finishes primarily because I don't have the space for spraying set up etc.

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