At that point I was thinking I was there, however, when I tried a test pass at around 1/16 inch (lowering the infeed) I had a monster snipe. So now I'm ...scratching my head. I'd really like to see some good close ups of the front beneath the table bolts, and the rear beneath the table bolts. I'm thinking when I put everything back together, I must have done it incorrectly. It was shimmed quite a bit as I disassembled it, but like a fool I didn't take careful attention to the placements. Like I said, I took it entirely apart, stripped down to metal, including the body filler, and restored from there. It looks pretty darned good, but this machine needs some serious skilled adjustments, which I need to learn. Interested in being my porter guide? I'd appreciated it more than you know. Very best regards from an Iowa -> minnesota transplant. Jim Peterson (952) 688-6580
Mr. Emch....I would very much appreciate your assistance. I recently restored a 24" porter 300. It was my second restoration project. It's 99% together, but there are a few issues I have where your expertise could be a lifesaver. I'm having a wicked time getting the monster tables coplanar and parallel with the cutter head(4 knive). So many little questions that being a novice and with no maintenance manual to be found... 1) horizontal clearance between the two tables and the cutter head - i.e., distance knives clear either table edge? 2a) I first used a browne and sharpe 72" camel back straight edge W attached 4' carpenters level to level the outfeed table to the floor(world) shimming at the wedge bolt holes , 2b) leveled/parallelled the infeed table to the outfeed table(again shimming (probably 1/4") then 2c) using a dial indicator set the knives to exact height of the outfeed table. Continued.
