Most of the parts requiring very high precision are fairly small and a 24" straightedge will cover them. But you can check a 3' or 4' board with the 24" straightedge by checking it at multiple...
Type: Posts; User: Robert Hazelwood; Keyword(s):
Most of the parts requiring very high precision are fairly small and a 24" straightedge will cover them. But you can check a 3' or 4' board with the 24" straightedge by checking it at multiple...
On a flat stone it's very difficult to make a reverse camber even if you try. So I would check that your stones is not convex.
Another thing to look at is the plane sole. The only time I've ever...
They are not quite a drop-in replacement. See my post above. Because they are 1/32" thinner than the LN blade, you have to modify the chipbreaker (very slightly) or the iron won't seat fully onto...
I use an O1 Hock blade in my LN #4. It's thinner than LNs iron by enough that I had to file the slot in the chipbreaker (for the adjustment pawl) slightly wider. Since the pawl is tapered and the...
The lever on an 8" parallelogram style jointer works fine. ~1/32" is what its set on most of the time but I can quickly bump that up to an 1/8" or whatever and then back down. The little scale next...
What I know about Arkansas stones is mostly from David Weaver. He would buy tons of stones and write at length about them on various forums. He also had some good youtube videos I'd point you to...
Fine India is perfect for this- sets up a soft ark very nicely
Tony, if you want to remove the ruler trick bevel, you'll need to grind the edge of the blade back until its gone. The way Charlesworth demonstrated it, its width should be very minimal (~1/64"), so...
I'll also add that I find sharpening a large flat bevel to be trickier than freehanding a small secondary bevel. I have both western and Japanese tools, and I sharpen most of the westerns with a...
You don't actually have to be perfectly consistent to freehand. I think this is something that intimidates newbies- they assume the consistency of a guide is essential to getting a sharp edge, and...
So long as the length of the part is not an issue, you should be able to get a quite accurate (90 degrees in both directions, and flat) cut using a miter gauge or sled. Only issue will be surface...
If I'm understanding your description, the sole is convex along its length by about .004". That's not bad at all, and much better than being .001" concave. The acid tests for the sole are - can you...
I'd say Japanese saws will be easier for a novice to get started with, being easier to engage in the cut. But they really like to wander in the cut if you get heavy handed with them. What you'll...
I built a split top from doug fir construction lumber about 7 years ago. The top as a whole has been very stable, no issues with them not being coplanar. The biggest advantage in use is that I can...
Removing the tension before turning the tracking wheel makes it easier on the screw threads. If you are maxxed out on blade tension it can take a lot of force to turn the tracking knob, so I see why...
In this situation you can't reliably use a fence, and even checking with a square is not that useful. The main thing is to first plane all twist out of the edges, and to make sure each edge is flat...
I've been enjoying a channel called Shoyan Japanese Carpenter. Lots of power tools but also plenty of hand tool work as well. Very interesting to see their different approach to constructing and...
For a given final edge angle, any sort of primary grind is only reducing material behind the edge, which is the purpose. If two 1/8" thick blades have a final edge angle of 30 degrees, which has...
If the sole is flat or very slightly convex you can maintain a flat surface with full length shavings, and not have to do stopped shavings. It takes practice and a lot of concentration, focusing on...
The only thing that matters for edge durability and sharpness is the angle at the tip. Doesn't matter how many bevels or what shape they are. If the tool needs to make deep cuts then thinning out...
I guess if this plank is very thin then it makes sense to rig up something to plane it on the side. But if it has any thickness at all it seems way more efficient to just plane the edge normally.
Well, they're touching somewhere. If you can't see where, try sliding a feeler gauge or slip of paper along the joint and see where it gets stuck.
I agree with the comment about checking for...
If you have a bevel down plane with a chipbreaker, I'd spend some time learning how to set the chipbreaker so you can plane without tearout. This is a situation where there's no great way to orient...
Japanese irons and chisels are normally sharpened as one huge flat bevel, but you can sharpen them in whatever way you want as long as the edge angle is appropriate.
For most things I try to hone...
Do whatever you need to do to get it acceptably flat. Then wear in the new surface by lapping some chisel or plane iron backs on it. Very hard or high wear resistance steels would be ideal to speed...