Concrete Block and hanging peg board

[Steve Roxberg]

I would like to hang a section of peg board on a concrete block wall. I have some Simpson wall screws that I use on the poured concrete walls, drill and screw.

My question is on the block wall should I drill into the block, or into the mortar joints? Does it matter?

[Dewey Torres]

Creeker James Lee has brick which may be a similar application. You could PM him but review this thread first and scroll down to his discussion on cabinets: TOWARD THE BOTTOM

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=99086

[Bruce Wrenn]

If you drill into the center of the block, this is where the web is located. That will give you the most holding power.

[Greg Cuetara]

There are products out there which are made to attach to masonry block. Your best bet is a product which looks like a drywall anchor. You drill a hole and put in a sleeve then screw in your screw. Trying to get a screw into the morter joints or the web is safe if you are looking to hold up a calendar. If you want to put any weight onto the peg board IMHO it is not very safe just trying to use a concrete anchor.

Find a product made specifically for anchoring to hollow block masonry.

Greg

[Ted Shrader]

Steve -

Try to find some TapCon® anchors. (They look like screws.) Simple to install. Just drill the correct size hole in the block and put in the anchor. I keep several sizes of TapCons® on hand as they are very easy to use.

Don't forget to add some spacers that are thick enough to allow the peg hooks to go in the back. DAMHIKT.

Regards,
Ted

[Steve Southwood]

I have a block wall garage. I use nails to hold up my pegboard frames. I make up the frame for the pegboard. Hold it to the wall. Drill 1/4" hole thru board and block. Drive 2, 16 penny nails into hole at same time. Once frame work is up, then mount pegboard to it. The 2 nails wedge against each other and form a mechanical lock.

This is the same way we attach basement walls to the floor. A lot easier than packing around an assortment of screws and drivers.

[Butch Edwards]

I have a block wall garage. I use nails to hold up my pegboard frames. I make up the frame for the pegboard. Hold it to the wall. Drill 1/4" hole thru board and block. Drive 2, 16 penny nails into hole at same time. Once frame work is up, then mount pegboard to it. The 2 nails wedge against each other and form a mechanical lock.

This is the same way we attach basement walls to the floor. A lot easier than packing around an assortment of screws and drivers.

hmm..sounds like an idea....it's a pain installing toggles for everything,like I've been doing..

[Larry Conely]

In a former shop, I had a similar problem. I fastened vertical battens to the overhead rafters, then fastened the pegboard to the battens. I only applied pegboard to the upper 4 feet of the walls of the shop.

[Jim Heffner]

I think some of the other posters are trying to tell you that the best way to mount the peg board to a concrete block wall is to mount furring strips to the wall first. These strips give you more flexibility and more points to mount the peg board to than simply mounting them directly to the block wall. Furring strips will also give the needed space at the back which makes installing and removing the peg board hooks a lot easier. You can
make the furring strips yourself by ripping down some 1"x4" or 1" x6" or what ever you have in the shop....nothing fancy here is needed, just good solid and functional .

[David Epperson]

I had 2 good sized cabinets I needed to hang in my shop, and it also has block walls. I knew these were going to get loaded down fairly heavy, so I went with the expanding "Moly Bolt" anchors. But I ran into a problem - the moly bolt anchors only had about 1-1/2 threads in the end and stripped out real easily. To remedy this I reversed the screw in the moly bolt, leaving the head of the screw on the inside of the wall, and loc-tited the screw in place. Then I used a nut and washer to expand the anchor behind the web area of the block wall. I used (4) 1/4" bolt anchors for each cabinet. This left me with an array of anchor "studs" to hang the cabinets to. And since I had drilled the holes with the cabinets held in their mounting locations to begin with - I knew the holes/studs would line up. And they did.

[Wright Woodall]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Southwood
I have a block wall garage. I use nails to hold up my pegboard frames. I make up the frame for the pegboard. Hold it to the wall. Drill 1/4" hole thru board and block. Drive 2, 16 penny nails into hole at same time. Once frame work is up, then mount pegboard to it. The 2 nails wedge against each other and form a mechanical lock.

This is the same way we attach basement walls to the floor. A lot easier than packing around an assortment of screws and drivers.

hmm..sounds like an idea....it's a pain installing toggles for everything,like I've been doing..

I am a fan of toggle bolts for non-filled block. That said, we call the method described above "pinch nailing" and use it to secure concrete forms to footings or walls. Even though we use 16d double head nails for easy removal, the heads have been known to break off before the nails would pull out using a very large pry bar. It is cheaper and easier than toggle bolts. Worth a try, IMO.

[Steve Southwood]

Wright, I never knew it had a name . Yep, it is about the strongest and quickest way to fasten, wood to concrete, I have ever came across. Been doing it this way since it was shown to me and never looked back.