Buffing Question

[Gerold Griffin]

After seeing some work first hand that was buffed I'm sold. My problem is that I enjoy ALL areas of woodworking, lathe, scroll saw, furniture making you name it. I would like to invest in a buffing system that I could use on bowls and vases then use on furniture. I have seen the hand held buffers but those look like they would be better used on cars, and I would prefer Beal wheels and mops on some type of hand held system. Does anyone have any suggestions or do I need 2 differant systems to do the same job? Any insight would be great!!

[Jeff Nicol]

Gerold, I don't have a stand alone buffing system but buff things with 4-6" buffing wheels in my battery drill and on my lathe. I use 3 different 4" or 6" wheels on my lathe to buff out turnings. Each one has a mandrel that holds the buffing wheel and I load them with whatever compound I want to use. When mounted in the drill chuck on the lathe I can use both hands to hold the turning. If I want to buff a table top I put them in the hand held drill. When doing large flat surfaces I put a buffing bonnet on the wheel so the arbor bolt is covered and you can use it like a small car buffer! Like any buffing keep the buffer moving and don't put to much pressure on the wheel as it will cut through any finish you have applied. Oil finishes that do not create a film will withstand more pressure.

Hope this helps!

Jeff

[Steve Schlumpf]

Gerold, buffing can make a huge difference in the way the wood looks but make an even bigger difference in the way it feels! It is worth the effort!

I use the Bealle 8" wheels with a short mandrel on my lathe. I slide the headstock down to the very end of the lathe and can buff just about anything - hand held. For larger items, I would have to think that Jeff's idea of 4" buffing wheels held in a drill would work very nice. For very large items, like a table top, I would think a car buffer would work but would take longer as they usually have a set lower rpm.

[Jim Kountz]

This is an interesting topic for me as I am researching the same thing right now. I like the Beall system and it seems reasonable enough. What compounds to use?

[Peter Lamb]

I use a 4 -6 inch buffing wheel held on a mandrel and/or Beall bowl spheres held in a jacobs chuck in the head stock. Buffing compounds as recomended by Beall followed by your favorite wax.

[Scott Conners]

I have to admit I really like my 8" Don Pencil buffing mandrel. It gives lots of room away from the headstock and is surprisingly rigid. I use the 8" wheels and the smaller 3" goblet and 4" bowl buffs both. Having the tapered mandrel for the bowl buffs that fits the lathe mandrel means I can use pretty much any typical buffing wheel too. It's still pretty new to me, but I have buffed pretty much everything I could, including a 20 year old electric guitar that I brought back to a beautiful shine (some idiot took steel wool to it). Even on my mini lathe there's a fair amount of room to work. I have entertained the idea of chucking up a female threaded coupler in my cordless drill and using the buffs hand held, I just haven't had the need yet. I expect it would work very well, especially with the bowl buffs.

A word to the wise - be very careful using the white compound on raw wood. Any pores/defects will pick it right up and show obviously, and it's a pain to get out.

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Thought I would answer your question this way. Not being a flat worker I would imagine there are times when a hand held system is what you need. I do; however, believe in a dedicated station for turning if you have the room. I have included some pics of mine. It is nothing fancy and it was cheap as the shield and motor were scrounged (legally). The shield is a discarded casket stand. and the motor is an old spa pump motor. I put the shield on drawer runners so I can move it out of the way when not in use. It is connected to my dust system and that makes a huge difference. The shaft extension adapter and buffs are Bealle. Thought about a switch but just haven't had the time.

[Derek Hansen]

A word to the wise - be very careful using the white compound on raw wood. Any pores/defects will pick it right up and show obviously, and it's a pain to get out.

Had this happen to me a few times. Now, my so far fool-proof quick and easy finish process is as follows:

1) Sand up to 600 grit.
2) Apply a couple coats of Mylands cellulose sanding sealer (takes ~30 secs)
3) Buff with tripoli/WD/carnauba. DONE!

[Brad Kimbrell]

I just got my Malcolm Tibbetts videos today and I see that he buffs with the piece still chucked in the lathe and uses a high-speed buffer that is hand-held. Sort of like sanding on the lathe while it's turning.

Of course the sanding sealer is a must with dark woods - they will fill up with the white diamond compound and it's a bear to get out! Trust me, I speak from experience with that...and lack of experience on the lathe!

[Scott Conners]

Had this happen to me a few times. Now, my so far fool-proof quick and easy finish process is as follows:

1) Sand up to 600 grit.
2) Apply a couple coats of Mylands cellulose sanding sealer (takes ~30 secs)
3) Buff with tripoli/WD/carnauba. DONE!

Thanks Derek! Question: when you say 30 seconds, do you means to apply, or is that drying time too?

[Derek Hansen]

Thanks Derek! Question: when you say 30 seconds, do you means to apply, or is that drying time too?

Application and drying.