I have been messing around making rolling pins. Does anyone have any tips to get the body of the pin the same diameter? Possibly a tool, a technique or something else I can't think of. Thanks alot.
I have been messing around making rolling pins. Does anyone have any tips to get the body of the pin the same diameter? Possibly a tool, a technique or something else I can't think of. Thanks alot.
You can use a 1/4" parting tool and a set of calipers to make reference cuts at intervals along the rolling pin. I would suggest 3" to 4" apart. Then connect the dots. You should be able to prevent tapering or cuping in that short a run.
You could also use a bedan and calipers to make all your cuts.
Raymond Overman
Happiness is a warm chainsaw
"Do not wait, the time will never be just right. Start where you stand, and work with whatever tools you may have at your command. Better tools will be found as you go along." Napolean Hill
I just saw this idea in Taunton's Complete Guide to Shaping Wood - use a block plane! In the past I've always sized with a parting tool and connected the dots, followed by a sanding block, but I intend to get my hands on a block plane asap for this very reason. They show using it at 45 degrees to the axis of the work, with the butt of the plane supported by the toolrest. The instructions are "Support the plane on the tool rest and push it slowly down the length of the slowly spinning stock."
A combination of Ray's and Scott's comments will work nicely. Get the cylinder rounded and "close" to the diameter you need using the method that Ray describes (a technique that is normal and common for any spindle work that requires adherence to a particular profile) and then use a small SHARP low-angle block plane skewed about 45º with the workpiece turning a moderate speed to finish the surface flat and smooth.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
If you choose to use the connect the dots method and not use a plane, very carefully align your tool rest to the ways of your lathe. You can then press your fingers firmly against the "away" side of the tool rest and use it like you would a marking gauge. If you have a large skew or scraper, you can use the nice long flat side to help gain that flat surface you're seeking.
You can also use a piece of flattened maple as a sanding block to ensure that you get the surface where you want it, flat-wise.
Lots of ways to skin that cat. And all will work, one of them better than the others for you, I'm sure.
Dean Thomas
KCMO
Thanks everyone. I am LOVING that idea of the maple sanding block. I can get my stuff close enough, on the total length but there is a slight variation, like 1/32 in 2 or 3 places. Keep the ideas coming!