looking for a quality chainsaw

[Seth Poorman]

I just bought a stihl 028 AV Super couple weeks ago,it was used in good condition and ive been using it about every other day because of the ice storm we had, and I have not had one problem w/ it yet..
The guy that sold it to me said he thought it was about a 10 yr old model.
I gave $200 for it and a new one was over$400. I bought mine at auction online. Good solid chainsaw!!!!!

[Kevin Godshall]

Last bit of advice.......... learn how to use a file, and educate yourself on what the rakers (depth gauges) do and how the tooth actually cuts. If you can sharpen your own loop when it needs it (I hand touch up mine on every gas fill), you will save your back, and your wallet (loops and bars).

Filing is not a hard task. It takes knowledge, practice and more practice.

[David Keller NC]

Looks like you've got your answer about what brand. Around here, professional tree crews almost exclusively use Stihls. I've yet to see one using huskys.

But never mind that - there's a couple of things I can add that might help you out:

1) Make sure the saw you buy has the horsepower to run the bar length. One of the most consistent mistakes newbies to chainsaws make is thinking that the bar size is to be matched to the size of the timber they want to cut, which is incorrect. The bar size needs to be matched to the engine size - it takes a large saw to run a 3 foot bar. In general, engines the size of the Stihl farm boss (used to be called the 029, I think it's a 290 now) should be matched to about a 16" bar. To run a 3 foot bar or so, you need a saw with an engine that's big enough to put wheels on and ride to work - in my case, an 066 Magnum (these are called 660s now, I think). This is not just a convenience issue - it's also safety. An engine that's too small for the bar size will bog and run slowly, which greatly increases the opportunity for binding and kick-back.

2) Make sure that you can get a 12V battery (trolling motor battery's ideal) on the island, and buy a power grinder from Granberg International. These grinders will correctly sharpen the cutters at the right angle, and grind the cutters all to a consistent cut depth (that's important to get a smooth-running, and safe, cut). You can try to do this with a file, but if you're a beginner, it's not easy to do correctly and efficiently.

Finally - ask what you'll be cutting up. One guy that came to the local woodworking club looking for hand tools was working felled trees on his island with a chainsaw lumber mill - it turned out to be cuban mahogany. To say the least, that shouldn't be turned into firewood...

[whit richardson]

I have the Husky Rancher, does great and has a nice anti-kickback safety off feature. If the saw kicks back fast it locks the chain immediately. I have seen tree crews with Husky and Stihl both but ... I think the lumber pro's use Jonsered's the most.

[Dennis Peacock]

The Stihl MS361 is the perfect choice by MANY arborists and I made my choice based on what the Pro's used for their mid-sized saw.....So I bought a MS361 and have never looked back.

[Bob Slater]

Great tips on the sharpening and bar length. So far it seems only gear made by Swedish or German companies gets the nod. I have read some great reviews of the Dolmar 5100, The Jonesereds , Husky's and Stihles. I am assuming the consumer models are all made in China now? I would prefer one made in Europe. Does $400 or so retail seem to be the entry level for a decent quality new machine made in Europe?

[Steve Southwood]

Another Stihl vote. Between the FIL and BIL, we have 5. All shapes and sizes.

One other thing. Make sure you can cut down the trees before you buy a saw. Don't know why I am thinking this, just don't know how stuff works down there. Would hate to see you on the news. " Dirty American starts deforrestation"

[Paul Downes]

Bob, Either Husky or Stihl will fit the bill. I would highly recommend that you do some reading @ www.forestryforum.com Read in the safety section and the chainsaw section. There is a lot to learn on what not to do.

These beach trees are going to contain a lot of sand. I would invest in a box of files plus a flat file for the rakers and learn how to use them. Some trees actually draw up silicates into themselves and those trees are very hard on saw chain. If you figure out how to get a saw down there I would make sure to take several extra chains. I would look into Carlton chain because it is harder than most others. Oregon chain is relatively soft. Stihl chain is O.K. Also figure on shipping plenty of mix and bar oil. Make sure you have blocks under the logs so they don't drop onto the sand. If you need to make further cuts you will dull the chain quickly when you hit the sand( and you will)

Get and use safety equipment. Minimum would be safety glasses and chaps. If you are doing any felling you need a helmet. You can get a helmet with ear muffs and face screen. Wear safety glasses under that - there will be plenty of sand flying around.

30" diameter trees are fairly large. You can get the job done with a smaller saw like a Stihl MS290(20" bar max) but you will be cutting from both sides of the log and it creates more chances to pinch the bar. What are you going to do if you pinch the bar in a 30" log with only one saw? Take some wedges and have an ax and have a hand saw handy. You might want to make an inquiry in the neighborhood down there to see if someone has a chainsaw available. It's a bummer to have your one saw pinched good and no second saw.

I use a 385xp (24" and 42" bars) Husky most of the time and have a Stihl 029 (20" bar) as my topping saw.

Always lock the chain with the chain brake when walking, or climbing on or over logs. or moving in any way where your footing could be questionable. Always be aware of where you feet are and NEVER cut toward them. Be especially aware of tension wood such as limbs trapped, long heavy limbs, etc. They can kill you in a split second. Think about where the limb is going to move when you cut to release the tension. Position yourself so tension wood moves away from you. If you get tired, take a break. Read up on kick backs and always be aware of were the bar tip is at.

There is a lot more to learn so read up and be safe. I know several folks who have been maimed or killed when logging/cutting firewood. All the accidents were avoidable and all were caused by operator error. I still love being out in the woods cutting wood and will be out there later this week making small ones out of big ones. Got to beat the snowstorm coming and get some wood to heat the house. Be safe!!!!!

[Bob Slater]

The trees are all down already and there are a few more to come. They were on a steep embankment and a few years ago a big storm eroded a lot of the soil away. Down they came all over he beach. It looks like a scene out of some North West beach. I know this wood is very dense from trying to bend the branches that are cluttering the place up. Many thanks on the safety tips. I am not going to approach this haphazardly, especially since there is no hospital on the island and minimal medical facilities (the pharmacy didn't have tylenol or a thermometer last time I visited!)