Toe kick, or no toe kick?

[Roger Warford]

I'm building some built-in cabinets that will go in a playroom for LOML. Three base cabinets side-by-side at about 43" tall. Total length of just under 8'. Depth about 22". Book shelves will extend from the top of the cabinets to the ceiling. I originally designed in a toe kick, but am second guessing myself. So, would you go with a toe kick or not, and why? I'd really appreciate the feedback!

Playroom Shelves v4.png

[Jamie Buxton]

Most people expect to see a toe kick. I think they're conditioned by kitchen cabinets. There, the argument is that somebody working on the counter needs a place for his toes. That argument doesn't apply to your project.

Me, I'd make them without toekick. For one, that doesn't throw away the airspace behind the toekick. For two, it tells observant viewers that these are not just repurposed kitchen cabinets from the store.

[Steve Jenkins]

i agree with no toekick. I think it always looks more like furniture and less like kitchen cabinets. Put a base mold of some kind on it.

[Joe Chritz]

Make the bottom rail a bit wider and use an arch to match the top, no toe kick.

I would only put a kick on a piece that I was planning on spending some time standing in front of.

If you don't want the arch then an applied molding of some kind would look very good as well. Just adjust the overall size of the bottom rail to work with whatever you use.

Joe

[Roger Ronas]

I agree, NO TOEKICK. Looks more like furniture.

[Jim Becker]

Whether you have a "true toe kick" or not is personal preference, but even without you'll need to decide on a method to "finish" the bottom so that it looks grounded.

[Roger Warford]

Thanks to all for the feedback! I've eliminated the toe kick and have extended the bottom rail.

Joe, I like your idea of echoing the arch at the bottom, but I can't see how to do that without creating a haven for dust bunnies. Can you elaborate on what you had in mind?

I'm using overlay doors so I'm not sure it will look right with molding underneath either. I may just go with a plain rail at the base.

Jim, I'd be be interested in any ideas you (or anyone else for that matter) have for "grounding" the design. I'm finding that I'm not very creative!

In any event, LOML has layed down the law and progress must be made! I've built the carcases and have milled up stock for a face frame, sans toe kick. Hopefully I can get the face frame assembled tomorrow.

Thanks again for the feedback. The more I look at it, the more I prefer the "toe-kickless" look.

[Jim Becker]

One way to "ground" the built-in is to continue the room's base board through the cabinetry. If the doorways have a special way of delineating the trim work from the base (plinth blocks, etc.), that could also be done to cause some separation and they you can either continue the base board design or even do a plain base across the cabinet. You have many choices. Some pictures of the room might be helpful to folks for refining suggestions. The bottom line with built-ins is that they should feel "built-in" rather than "built-on".

[Roger Warford]

There's not much to see in the playroom. Here's the baseboard, it's about 6" high:

DSC_6683_sm.jpg

No crown or other trim. Here are the arches in the foyer that I'm using a model for the arches on the bookcases:

DSC_6682_sm.jpg

Sorry about the lousy photography - it's late and I'm tired!

[Jim Becker]

I would probably incorporate the base board molding profile into the base as previously suggested or perhaps, mirror that wonderful fluted door opening in how you frame out the built-in and just a plain, flat base between the pilasters. Sketch it out both ways to see what is most appealing to you.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Roger, I would make a plinth aproximately 3 or 4 inches high for the cabinet to sit on.

The plinth could be a simple ladder section unit which would be easily shimmed for level.

As others have stated, continue the wall base trim around the plinth.

Regards, Rod.

[Roger Warford]

Thanks again for the replies. Had to go look up "plinth"! I had planned on making a separate base for leveling purposes. I'll see what it looks like after I raise up it up high enough to clear the 6" baseboard, and how it looks with baseboard beneath the overlay doors.

But, as always, the wisdom of the Creek is spot-on. If I had the time, I'd start over on the design and incorporate more of the details you all have suggested from day one. Next time I'll know to ask earlier!