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Thread: What Glue

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Russiaville,Indiana
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    What Glue

    Need your idea's on glue for segment bowls I have always used elmers yellow wood glue and never had the glue joint break without major wood tear out. But the guys talked me into changing to titlebond 3 that it was better have 4 things break at the glue joint and not tear wood just clean break at seam like the glue did not soak into the wood. Has anyone had this happen to them with titlebond 3? Or did I get a bad batch of glue what glue do you use on segmented bowls . Have taken out 2 lights now but on the good side I've learned to dodge flying wood real well in the last week.

  2. #2
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    sounds like to me that you got a bad batch, I have been using titebond 1 and 2 for a long time and never hade a problem


    Dave

  3. #3
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    New Port Richey, FL
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    definetly a bad batch, we use titebond 2 and 3 at work ( www.haasbrothers.com ) all the time, the glue is great. tb3 is waterproof, but takes longer to set, personally i prefer tb2 because it sets quicker, time is money.

  4. #4
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    I have to go along with the previous replies. I use a gallon of Titebond 2 every couple of weeks in my business and also have used it for numerous segmented turnings without any problems.

  5. #5
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    Dahl - have to agree that you more than likely have some bad glue. I have used Titebond 2 & 3 for years now and have never had a problem.
    Steve

    “You never know what you got til it's gone!”
    Please don’t let that happen!
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  6. #6
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    I would agree you got some bad glue. I use Titebond III because it is waterproof and never had a joint fail.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



  7. #7
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    Dahl,

    Sounds like you have some bad glue, but the fault might not belong at Titebond's door. PVA glue is temperature sensitive. If someone (the wholesaler, the retailer, the buyer) allows it to freeze, the glue will go bad. When I worked at a furniture mill, "the new guy" thought he could gain some space inside by storing our 55 gallon barrels of glue in the storage shed. The glue froze, he brought it in and thawed it out. We lost a full day's production -- every single glue joint made with that glue failed. The problem is, you can't tell by looking at the glue whether it's been frozen.

  8. #8
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    Aug 2006
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    Wimberley, Texas
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    Dahl,
    Ditto what they said. Being waterproof, TB 3 is for outdoor projects. For segmented turnings stay with Elmer's yellow, TB 1 or 2. I use TB 2 now, but segmented/laminated pieces I made with Elmer's yellow around 1990 are still in good condition. Our leader (M.T.) recommends TB 1.
    Richard in Wimberley

  9. #9
    What David said about frozen glue is true.

    "Sounds like you have some bad glue, but the fault might not belong at Titebond's door. PVA glue is temperature sensitive. If someone (the wholesaler, the retailer, the buyer) allows it to freeze, the glue will go bad."

    I find the most likely culprit for freezing is the freight companies. Packages are often stored in trucks outside overnight, and things freeze. I find the best way to get frost free glue is to order a whole years supply in the summer. That way you are in control of the temperature and conditions it is stored at.
    Brian

    Sawdust Formation Engineer
    in charge of Blade Dulling

  10. #10
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    Ditto on the freezing. It really doesn't even have to get all the way to freezing IMO.

    I have some that was out in my shop. It gets down below 40° sometimes, but usually not to freezing. The glue in the shop went bad. The glue kept warm in the house is still good.

    jim

  11. #11
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    I would only add two things.

    1: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. If what you had was working good then there needs to be a reason to change.

    2: When it comes to yellow glue I buy whatever is on sale at the time. I like the Elmer's brand since it seems (subjectively) to be a bit thicker.

    At least your reflexes are getting tuned up.

    Joe
    JC Custom WoodWorks

    For best results, try not to do anything stupid.

    "So this is how liberty dies...with thunderous applause." - Padmé Amidala "Star Wars III: The Revenge of the Sith"

  12. #12
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    Ok sounds like I got some bad glue I bought it at Rockler this spring the guy did say that he sales more titlebond 1-2 because it is cheaper. And here in Indiana it gets cold could have been in there back room for the winter. Ive always carried my glue back and forth to the shop because I don't heat the shop all the time.THANKS for the info too the trash that bottle go's.

  13. #13
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    Tightbond products are freeze thaw stable so freezing shouldn't have any effect on the product, at least through a few cycles.

    The biggest issue with cold is chalking which greatly affects the bond. Temp is very important when making the bond. I would lean toward shelf life problems or temp during application. Only one of those you know the other sounds suspect from your last post.

    ETA: Shelf life is listed as 12 months under 75 degrees in tightly closed containers per the manufacturer.

    For info on Tightbond products check out this page...

    http://www.titebond.com/DetermineTB....uctIntroTB.asp

    Joe
    JC Custom WoodWorks

    For best results, try not to do anything stupid.

    "So this is how liberty dies...with thunderous applause." - Padmé Amidala "Star Wars III: The Revenge of the Sith"

  14. #14
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    The spec says Freeze/thaw stabilityStable, but also under Limitations, it says KEEP FROM FREEZING..

    not sure what it all means...

  15. #15
    With my segmented turnings I have had good results with Elmer's yellow, Titebond and Titebond II.
    Did have a couple joints fail with Titebond III. My impression is that the joint was a little too brittle. Especially for thin layers where the ring may flex during sanding.
    Just cut off the parts that don't look like a bowl...

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