Kreg Top Trak vs Incra Shop Stop

[Robert Parrish]

I'm thinking about replacing my old miter saw station fence with a new one. My old fence is a Myte-r-Kut and is about 20 years old. I have been researching different options and would like to see what you guys are using. I have a lot of experience with Incra products but they don't have a flip stop for their shop stop fence. Kreg has an adhesive backed scale with I don't like because I've had problem with them coming off in the past and there is very little or no adjustment. Also my saw is a Bosch and the saw table fence is 11" from the auxiliary fence and none of these systems will allow the stop to get closer to the blade.

[James Reichman]

I have the Kreg setup on my mitre station. I used the heavy duty T-track, the flip and solid stops. The left side is 8' and the right is 4'. I love the setup and the adjustment is easy if you use there stops. I will say the mitre stop attachment is a waste of $ it does have some play in it = not to accurate. I had the fences in line and parralell to the saw fences. But if you want to do alot of highly accurate and repeatable mitres with the solid stop. Set your fences 1/4" back from the saw fences and parrallel. I found that when I set them originally in-line with the saw fences the tip of the miter slips into a small void between the stop and the fence. So setting them back a 1/4" the tip of the mitre hits the stop = nice accurate repeatable miters.
My saw is an Omga the fence is about 11" from the blade as well. I just use a block of wood and a clamp when I'm in that area. The Kreg adhesive backed scale has not peeled on me.

Good Luck
Jim

[Robert Parrish]

Thanks James. What about making repeatable cuts between the Kreg and saw fence, 11" in my case. Do you use spacers to make up the difference? My current stop will slide up to the blade but it is a hassle to use and no scale. I have just been setting it manually with a tape measure.

[James Reichman]

On my saw the top of the fence is flat. So I was able to cut the tape at the begining of the T track and use the rest to run on the saw fence. However the stops cannot be used for that 11 or so inches. I use that part of the tape to get me close by just looking down at the tape. I then use a block of wood and a clamp to dial in my exact # as I keep checking it with my tape measure. Once I'm at the exact length I want I make all those cuts. Like when I'm applying molding to the inside of a shaker style door.

[James Reichman]

I made my fence out of 1 1/2 mdf .I cut a 3/4 d x 1 1/2 w rabbit . I was able to screw through the kreg track and apply it to the mdf fence. Then I put the rabbit on the edge of my boxes and screwed through that into the box. Now I had the "L" . If you have space between your saw and the aux fence you could shift your "L" to overhang of the box and rest on the saw table or to cover that void?

[Robert Parrish]

James, I decided to go ahead and order the Kreg fence. I'm not sure that I will put it on the right side as I do 95% of my cutting on the left. Thanks for the advice.

[Steve Griffin]

Good choice!

I'm very happy with my Kreg system.

I ground off a little of the track to get it a few inches closer to the blade.

For shorter cuts than that, I keep a spacer block labeled "10" handy. Set the stop for +10 inches, set the block in place and no clamps or tape measures needed.

The right side has no track and the only serves to provide support. I have a short fence on the right too, but it is past the miter saw fence a little--it's only job is to help speed feeding stock in towards the saw.

Any time you use a tape measure in the shop, you are wasting time!

-Steve

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Robert, I think you will be impressed. I bought myself the Kreg parts to make a fence for my saw, and having not seen this stuff in person prior to ordering, I was very impressed. Good stuff!

One thing I noticed though, the schematic for assembling the flip stop shows the nylon washer outside of the two aluminum stop componenets. This of course make the flip stop pivot aluminum on aluminum, which dosen't work very well. Put the washer where it should be, between the two aluminum stop components, and the pivot will be smooth as silk. Other then that, good stuff. I bought my kit from Tool King, and they kicked in a free flip stop, 2' of top track, a hat and free shipping. Showed up in two days too.

[Robert Parrish]

Update: My Kreg Top Trak system arrived and I installed it on my Bosch compound miter saw and it works great! The Bosch has a removable upper section to their fence which I removed and with a couple of rabbets and got the fence to within 3" of the blade. I had a 2 ft section of fence left over so I used it on my drill press. I made several test cuts on both sides and they were dead on.

[Mike Heidrick]

On my saw the top of the fence is flat. So I was able to cut the tape at the begining of the T track and use the rest to run on the saw fence. However the stops cannot be used for that 11 or so inches. I use that part of the tape to get me close by just looking down at the tape. I then use a block of wood and a clamp to dial in my exact # as I keep checking it with my tape measure. Once I'm at the exact length I want I make all those cuts. Like when I'm applying molding to the inside of a shaker style door.

James. Make a block that is exactly 12". Set your stops at the length needed +12". Then insert the block and but your stock against it. Perfect every time (every time you can but your work against the block.)

[James Reichman]

James. Make a block that is exactly 12". Set your stops at the length needed +12". Then insert the block and but your stock against it. Perfect every time (every time you can but your work against the block.)

Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try
To the OP enjoy the fence system I love mine.
Happy An Healthy New Year to all.
James

[Steve Griffin]

Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try
To the OP enjoy the fence system I love mine.
Happy An Healthy New Year to all.
James

Sounds good, but 10" is easier for us with small brains to do the math.