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Thread: Poor man's sliding table... Dumb idea?

  1. #1
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    Poor man's sliding table... Dumb idea?

    I need to trim down an end grain glue up and even out the sides on my TS--its a 12" x 18" cutting board that is 2.5" thick. Top and bottom have been flattened, its just the pieces making up the long side are slightly uneven. One side is good enough to run along the rip fence, so I can straighten the bad edge, and maybe then rip a hair off the good side for good measure.

    But, it started me thinking. What I really need is a sled that has a miter bar on the bottom so it runs in the miter slot, and some kind of clamp on the top to hold down the cutting board. Align it, clamp it down, then square cut. You could build it out of 3/4" ply or something, and even run a couple aluminum tracks 90* to the miter bar on the top to allow you to arbitrarily clamp something to the sled.

    So what am I missing? Is this a dumb idea for some reason? I've seen a billion pictures of virtually every TS jig you can think of, but don't think I've ever seen anything like this.

  2. #2
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    What is stopping you from building a standard TS dual runner sled???
    Dewey

    "Everything is better with Inlay or Marquetry!"


  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dewey Torres View Post
    What is stopping you from building a standard TS dual runner sled???
    Have one. I guess I was thinking that the ability to position something arbitrarily was useful. Dual runner sleds also seem generally fairly narrow; seems like this could be used to make something longer. My sled is a good 2' wide, but that doesn't do you much good when you want to rip something w/o a straight reference that is 2.5' long...

  4. #4
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    I must be misunderstanding you. I thought you cutting bard was only 12” x 18”?
    Dewey

    "Everything is better with Inlay or Marquetry!"


  5. #5
    I think you want a panel cutting jig, like this?

    http://www.cabinetmaking.com/pages/panelcutter.htm

    There are many different sizes and styles. A quick search should yield tons of info.

  6. #6
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    Talking

    http://usa.felder-gruppe.at/?page=ma...aa3236803d8882


    I think one of the above should do the trick, and you don't even have to make it yourself!

    Regards, Rod.

  7. #7
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    Think panel jig, but without the squared front (obviously means one runner only). To take it to an extreme, say you had a circular piece of wood, or something really bowed, and you wanted a straight cut on one side. Is there a safety issue with making a sled that has one runner that you could clamp the piece to, rather than pushing against a rip fence or the front/back fence of a panel cutting jig. I can make the cut I need to (either with my panel jig or, for that matter, the rip fence)--I'm just wondering whether anyone used such a thing and whether anyone saw any issues with using one.

    As I think about it, the problem I see is that it would be most useful if you could do really long rips with it. The problem there is that your miter runner then has to be really, really long as well. Maybe that is the answer.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    I think one of the above should do the trick, and you don't even have to make it yourself!
    Yup. Solves all the problems, except for the "poor man's" part.

    Maybe I should phrase this differently. Anyone ever built a cheap sliding table for their TS?

  9. #9
    What you are talking about is a jig somewhat like a tapering jig. You put the board on it, clamp it down and make one side straight.

    In fact you could just use a tapering jig to do it if it is large enough.
    Here is my tapering jig, now if you just think of it as being much wider you could do just what you want to do.

    http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/taper

    100580566.dh7wT3Pd.P7225560.jpg

  10. #10
    Another approach would be a variation on a "straight line rip jig." Basically, it means attaching your workpiece to a straight edge, using anything from clamps to screws or duct tape, then running that straight edge along the fence.

    Try Goggling Straight Line Rip Jig and you will see some examples. It's really quite similar to Bill's tapering jig above.

    Another idea is to use a hand held circular saw and a guide.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Huber View Post
    What you are talking about is a jig somewhat like a tapering jig. You put the board on it, clamp it down and make one side straight.
    Bingo!

    I take it yours is designed to run along the rip fence?

    Seems like a good design...

  12. #12
    Yep - I built one like it a few years ago. It's my favorite way to taper
    Jason Beam
    Sacramento, CA

    beamerweb.com

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Eric DeSilva View Post
    Bingo!

    I take it yours is designed to run along the rip fence?

    Seems like a good design...
    That is correct, it runs along the fence.

    But you can do the same thing with a rail it you need the width.

  14. #14
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    I have the sleds, but I prefer my Incra miter gage. I have a perfectly square board that is 1 1/4"X3"x36" long attached to the miter gage. The gage rides in the slot to the right of the blade. My cast iron top and extensions are waxed with Johnson wax and very slick. I can cut large panels safely and accurately. There is no fricton to deal with. The blade will pass through the auxilary miter fence and the kerf makes cutting to a line exact.

    A sliding table is the only thing I can think of that is superior. :-)

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    http://usa.felder-gruppe.at/?page=ma...aa3236803d8882


    I think one of the above should do the trick, and you don't even have to make it yourself!

    Regards, Rod.
    Hey Rod, I have one of those jigs, and I have to say, it works VERY well!

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