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Thread: Drawer Lock Bit Setup

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Cave Creek, AZ - near Phoenix
    Posts
    1,261
    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony Whitesell View Post
    It turns out that there are two bit designs both called "drawer lock"...
    Anthony - thanks for the clarification. I have not shopped for a drawer lock bit a while, and the alternate profile has become available since the last time I looked.
    Dave Falkenstein aka Daviddubya
    Cave Creek, AZ

  2. #17
    Dave I'm fairly new to woodworking. And I'm using the Rockler Drawer Lock Router Bit - 1" Dia x 1/2" H x 1/2" and I'm making drawers using baltic birch plywood. Would explane to to how to make a scoring cut on the table saw before you run the sides through the router table. And can you make a templates of this?

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Huber View Post
    This should help......<br>
    <br>
    <a href="http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmtdrw1.htm" target="_blank">http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmtdrw1.htm</a><br>
    <br>
    I would also say bookmark his site, it is great and there is so much information there. John Lucas is a member of the Creek and gives great feedback on post.
    <br><br>Is this what I should get?<br> http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmtdrw1.htm<br><br>
    <br>

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,513
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    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony Whitesell View Post
    Based on my trial and error work at the house this weekend and that site, I'll still say there is only one height at which to setup the bit and the actual stock thickness has nothing to do with the bit height.
    Correct. Call it height or position but, that adjustment determines the tongue size which must match the profile of the groove cut by the widest part of the bit. It could not work otherwise ;-)
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Don Selke View Post
    Anthony:<br>
    <br>
    Shop Notes magazine also has a very good video on the set-up and use of this bit. Here is the link. <a href="http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/096/videos/drawer-joint-bits/" target="_blank">http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/096/videos/drawer-joint-bits/</a><br>
    <br>
    I use this bit for making production drawers and sliding trays. I have never had a failure with it.
    <br><br>Don I have read three or four articles on this bit and they talk about using this bit to also make the groves for the bottoms with this bit also. Have you used it make the grooves for the bottom?<br>
    <br>

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Between No Where & No Place ,WA
    Posts
    1,341
    See the current Woodmsith, vol. 37, No. 222, pp. 12-13, for a how-to-do-it article on setting up drawer lock bits for both lipped and non-lipped drawers.

  7. #22
    I use a cutting gauge to score cross grain before running the parts:

    Here's one at Lee Valley - item A: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...36,42948,50263

  8. #23
    "This should help......<br>
    <br>
    < a href="http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmtdrw1.htm" target="_blank">http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmtdrw1.htm</a><br>
    <br>
    I would also say bookmark his site, it is great and there is so much information there. John Lucas is a member of the Creek and gives great feedback on post."


    Unfortunately, John Lucas passed away a few years ago. It used to be on the web site. I think you can still purchase a cd of all the info he has for around $18 if there are any left. He put out a lot of good info!

    Bob

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