Neander workbench construction blog/thread

[Dave Samborski]

I can't imagine any locking casters being stable enough even for a solid, heavy workbench. They'd always be wanting to move the bench around, especially when trying to plane by hand.

I have two ideas; but no specifics:

#1 - a lifting caster system like is on the Rigid tablesaw. Lifts with a foot pedal, lowers onto the legs. Might be difficult (and $$$) to find proper hardware enough to lift a workbench, though.

#2 - A wheel set on one end of the legs and a set of lifting jack arms at the other. Kinda like a wheelbarrow setup. Set the wheels on an axle on the outside of the legs, flush with the floor/bottom of the legs. Use a set of removable jack arms on the other to lift and move around. Got to be better than sliding the whole bench across the floor.

Dave

[John Sanford]

So here's question #3, what to do about mobility. Is it practical to use casters on a hand tools work bench. I know Chris S. thinks we can just drag the workbench around if needed, but I tried to drag my 24"X48" bench this weekend and it was a chore. Can't imagine doing that every time I have to work on anything. Would casters be stable enough for uses such as planing boards etc. Are there any other options.

Zahid,

I have some "machinery feet" that do the whole lifting/locking thingy. They'll lift whatever they're attached to about 2.5". There are a variety of ways you could mount them. As far as their lifting capacity goes, these are from industrial cooking equipment (handy to be able to lift the equipment when its time to clean the floors), so a puny lit'l workbench won't be a problem for them. If you're interested, shoot me a PM and I'll see if I can get some pics and specs for ya.

That aside, yes, it's practical to use casters on a hand'bench, but you'll get much better results if you have some method of getting the bench's weight off the casters and directly onto the ground. Dave's Options #1 & #2 will both work, as will the setup my father's tablesaw has:

a pair of wheels on one end, with a trailer jack on the other. Works like a charm. Not as quick and convenient as the normal small lever mobile base setup, but this allows you to use bigger wheels that can easily clear the cronky bits that'll stop you and your bench dead in yer tracks. Put big enough wheels on the puppy, and you can easily roll it out into the driveway when the birds are singin' and weather's nice!

[Wilbur Pan]

Hi Zahid,

Casters would be bad for all the same reasons people don't put lathes on casters. There are other ways of immobilizing a bench for hand planing besides sheer weight. An old post of mine here on SMC illustrates one approach. Basically, if you can figure out a way to brace a workbench against a wall, a post, or some other stationary object, you don't need mass. That temporary workbench of mine violated every single "law" of workbench design -- it was extremely light weight, the top was made out of poplar, the legs were flimsy, and the top only rested on the legs. So you could build a lightweight workbench to make it movable, and still have it work for hand planing.

FWIW, when I was at the Woodworking in America conference in Berea, I was talking with Chris Schwarz and he said that my approach for my temporary workbench is his go-to answer for the "How do I build a workbench without a workbench?" question.

[Zahid Naqvi]

John, I like the trailer jack option, and it won't break the bank either.

Wilbur, I have drywall all around my garage and I am afraid after bracing the bench at the same spot after a while I will start damaging the drywall.

Dave, you option #2 is what I have on my router table and the bench saw I recently sold. I had that in mind, but I wanted to ask other creekers in case there are more viable options.

[David Keller NC]

Zahid - My first comment is that you're using your garage for the wrong purpose (putting cars in it).

But - what would probably be a more practical option that prevents damage to your drywall and still gives you a sturdy bench to do handplaning on is to mount a couple of 2X4s into the studs on the side of the garage, and make your bench narrower so that it will fit without having to move it constantly. From the standpoint of handplaning, a narrower bench (within reason, of course) isn't a big deal. Most of the Japanese craftsmen use "planing beams" as their workbench, and they're rarely more than 12" in width.

And - you could always buy a car cover for your car.

[harry strasil]

http://www.woodcraft.com/product.asp...&FamilyID=3703

[Zahid Naqvi]

Zahid - My first comment is that you're using your garage for the wrong purpose (putting cars in it).

And - you could always buy a car cover for your car.

now you're talking

[Wilbur Pan]

Wilbur, I have drywall all around my garage and I am afraid after bracing the bench at the same spot after a while I will start damaging the drywall.

Just a thought: could you screw a scrap piece of plywood over the drywall where you would be bracing the bench? You don't need a huge area -- the actual area of contact between my old temporary workbench and the wall was the cross section of the 1x4 that I had attached to the saw horse. I've also seen people use a 2x4 placed on the ground, one end up against the leg of the workbench, the other end against the wall -- sort of like a planing stop for the workbench.