I would like to turn a 1.5" brass rod to have a point on the end. Basically I want to make speaker spikes. Anyhow is this possable on a wood lathe 3520b?
I would like to turn a 1.5" brass rod to have a point on the end. Basically I want to make speaker spikes. Anyhow is this possable on a wood lathe 3520b?
-=Jason=-
Creeker Mike Henderson has done this on a Jet to make brass hammers. Check out his website
Dewey
"Everything is better with Inlay or Marquetry!"
intresting he uses a file, guess that will work thanks for the link.
-=Jason=-
"Speaker spikes"??? Is that for when the speech goes a little bit long??
Steve \o/Dynamite With A Laser Beam LLC
Epilog Helix 75W/Epilog Fusion Edge 80W and Jet 1642-EVS2
Jason,
Your high speed steel tools are harder than brass and can be used to turn your brass rod. (Many of us use brass or copper plumbing fittings to make a ferule for tool handles. This often requires a small amount of shaping on the lathe.) For what you are trying to do, I'd suggest using one or more of the following:
- Parting tool
- Scraper (preferably something small)
- Hollowing tool (the 1/4" square bits used for hollowing were intended for turning metal on metal lathes)
Keep the speed down and take very light cuts. You'll do fine. I've used an occasional spritz of WD-40 to lubricate the cut, but I'm not sure that helps.
Experience has taught me to cover my lathe and the surrounding area with newspaper or something else to catch the metal filings. Those puppies are sharp and will spread all over the shop quickly if you're not careful.
HTH
I use files to turn down the brass coupler I used as a ferrule on my wife's Thompson bowl gouge. It worked pretty well, if you have something to hold it (a chuck I'm guessing), I don't think it would be a problem. Not sure I'd use my "normal" turning tools...
In Alan Lacer's turning videos he demonstrates using "normal" turning tools for turning down a brass ferule, so I'd think it would be considered an acceptable practice. A file will work too, it'll just take (a lot) longer.
I've only turned brass or copper a handful of times. It's not difficult (or I wouldn't have been able to pull it off). Based on my experience, I'd use my parting tool or round nose scrapper to do most if all the shaping and reserve my file for "sanding" any rough edges left by the tool. YMMV.
Using a file and or sandpaper you can turn just about anything between spinning centers - including steel.
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I've turned Brass, Copper, and Aluminum on my 1640... Mild steel, too, if you take into account the number of times I've gouged my chuck with a careless trick using a bowl gouge.
Just use a slow speed and take light cuts, as has been said.
Allen
The good Lord didn't create anything without a purpose, but mosquitoes come close.
And.... I'm located just 1,075 miles SW of Steve Schlumpf.
Everyone else has already said it, it looks like. I would use a scraper or a parting tool. Brass turns okay. I have done steel also, but be sure to use some lubrication, it helps it cut better.
Wyatt
Is there some reason you don't want to buy manufactured spikes?
HSS cutters are used for turning steel with a metal lathe. In fact, those 1/4"X1/4" and 3/8"X3/8" cutters most hollowing rigs use ARE metal working cutter blanks. Using your HSS scraper will work fine for turning brass which is relatively soft, just take light cuts.
Mike
Brass is very easy to turn, you just need sharpe tools and take light cuts. I made a tool that has a piece of 1/8" carbide round stock in it and use a diamond card to keep it sharpe and I can get hair fine curls to come off with that. I use a small skew that works good too. Then sand it and buff it out. You could rig something up that would work like a crossslide and get the taper set and do it that way. That may be more than you want to try!
Should be no problem,
Jeff
To turn or not to turn that is the question: ........Of course the answer is...........TURN ,TURN,TURN!!!!
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