Making a cord

[George Lohnes]

I just bought a new (used) saw and it was hard wired to the electrical system at the shop.

I would like to get a cord made so that I can plug it into my existing 220V outlet in my shop.

Two questions:

1) how much would it cost for an electrician to do this -- assuming I could actually get one to return my call and show up!!

2) could I make the cord myself?

Saw is single phase 230v and has a foot of black, green, white wire sticking out (I will have to check to be 100% sure on wire color)

thanks as usual guys.

George

[Tom Veatch]

Don't know what it would cost for an electrician to do it, but it's a simple task to make a power cord.

First verify that the amperage rating of the circuit is greater than than the FLA of the saw. You didn't say what the motor power is, but figure about 6 amps/HP or look at the dataplate on the motor.

Assuming the circuit is large enough, get a plug that matches the existing receptacle and a length of 3 wire flexible cord. You should be able to find both the plug and wire at your local borg. If you have problems finding wire "by the foot", a short heavy gauge extension cord will do fine. For a short power cord, 12ga will be heavy enough. NEC ampacity requirements are not applicable here.

Wire the plug on one end of the wire - black and white to the hot blades, doesn't matter which color goes to which blade, green to the ground prong. At the saw end, connect like colors. It would be best to run the new wire all the way to the terminals the existing "black, green, white wire sticking out" connect to and discard, instead of splicing to, the existing wire. Otherwise, you'll need to mount some kind of terminal box with cord clamps and make the connection to the existing wire inside that box to provide strain relief for the splice.

[Dan Friedrichs]

A very easy job. I assume the existing dangling wires run to a junction box on the motor. Get a plug that fits your existing socket, some heavy 3-conductor wire (or cuts the ends off a heavy extension cord), put the plug on one end, and wire the other end to whatever points the existing wires connect to in the motor junction box (or switch box, or wherever...).

Since it's a 220V machine, there is no separate hot and neutral wire - you have two hot wires and one safety ground. The hot wires can be flipped around and nothing changes, so this is actually easier than wiring a 120v appliance of any sort.

[Peter Quadarella]

Hi George. I went from totally ignorant of electrical stuff to expert cord maker in about 3 days of making cords for 220V stuff. After you do it the first time you realize how easy it is. Just keep track of which wire goes where - and in fact 220V is easier than regular 110V. Just strip the wires and put the plugs on.

Try to be neat and sometimes it is cheaper to purchase existing extension cords and put new plugs on than to buy plain wire. Note the amp ratings of what you are using it for and the gauge of the wire. A first timer might be tempted to overdo it on the gauge, but it will be more frustrating to fit the wire in if it is really thick.

[Tom Godley]

You should be able to do this without much trouble.

You just need to verify the amps of the saw and make sure you have the correct plug/ wire for the tool. Then it is a matter of making sure you have the correct 220v supply with breaker/ receptacle. Don't forget to check where the wire comes out of the tool and make sure you have the correct strain relief for that also. Often this is 20amp 220

I second a look at the 12 gauge extension cord. I was able to buy a cord twice the length for half the price of the length of wire I needed. I just purchased receptacle for the cut end of the cord and made a heavy duty extension cord for basically free.

If you go to an electrical supply house you can buy better fittings that allow the stranded wire to be attached very easily to the new plug - I always get these. Some of the cheaper plugs have very little space in them and the screw terminals can be difficult to attach the stranded wire to with out a spade connector crimped to the wire. The big box stores do not always have these.

[Paul Steiner]

I recently put a plug on my unisaw and I second what has been said.
But I would like to add write down all your specs. and go straight the the electrical supplier. They will know what you are talking about and they will be able to help immediately. No one at the Borgs will know what you are talking about and they probably won't have all the pieces that you need.
You will probably pay a few dollars more at the electrical supplier, but the right advice and time you will save is worth it.

[Joel Earl]

Not to hijack this thread but a question along the same line.

I need to make up a extension cord - 220v 20amp to reach about 11' so I can relocate my jointer to center of shop. I popped the cover off the wall outlet and they got 10ga wire inside which is over kill for a 20amp circuit I know and it's the only one that is on it. Not sure why they used that heavy of a wire but it's there.
So to create an extension cord I would also just buy a 12 ga extension cord, clip off the plugs on both ends and use the correct ones 220 ones that match up to current ones?

What about this thought - doing an over head ceiling outlet that the existing jointer cord would reach? Anything special/magical in that? I've run wire before and am comfortable with it all but I have never put in a ceiling type of outlet. Or maybe a drop cord even?

I am listening and ready to learn

[George Lohnes]

This is getting strange as I am able to answer the "non hijack" question

I actually have that same setup currently (overhead outlet) and it works quite well. The only issues I have had is when I accidently brush up against the cord and it unplugs (due to gravity). So you connections have to be reasonably snug. I am average height and the ceiling is 9 ft so I attached a 1 ft piece of stick to my cord so I could push it up into the outlet.

I also like it because it allows me to be safer in that I actually DO unplug the saw before opening cabinet / changing blade because the plug is so close. I suspect that if it were a whopping 8 feet away I might stupidly bypass that step.

[Mike Wilkins]

I have made cords for all the 240 volt machines in my shop. I use the 12ga. rubber cord in a nice yellow color. For some odd reason I have a thing for yellow power cords. I use industrial twist-lock plugs and outlets for peace of mind. Just match up like wire colors and you are good to go.

[Joel Earl]

Thanks guys - off to the supply house I am headed. Having electrical availablity in this location will be great! I hate walking around or tripping on cords. Great and fast info - where do I mail the check