I was starting to wonder what became of you Belton, good to hear you're staying busy. Now get to work on the box mister!! LOL
PS Has anyone heard anything from my partner in crime Dewey lately??
I was starting to wonder what became of you Belton, good to hear you're staying busy. Now get to work on the box mister!! LOL
PS Has anyone heard anything from my partner in crime Dewey lately??
If at first you don't succeed, look in the trash for the instructions.
How thick is the top? Keep in mind when you are thinking about the profile for the top that the hinges are like strap hinges. I see the top half of the hinge mortised vertically into the top, and the bottom half mortised halfway[to the pin - a hair] in the box itself so we would want to maintain a little bit of a flat on the bottom of the lid so the hinge does not show in the edge profile of the lid. There should be aprox a 1/4" flat before the profile starts, maybe just a smidge more if it is there.
Do I have you confused?
I can send hinges if you need visual aids after I have confused you.
I originally thought the lid had already been dimensioned and just needed edge treatment. I now realize the lid is still rough and needs to be cut to final size.
Larry, I looked at all the drawings and believe the lid is designed to have a 1/2" overhang all the way around the box (this would allow it to align with the outside dimensions of the feet). I'm not sure how that affects the hinge mounting. The hinge would actually have to be recessed into the lid but not to the outer edge of the lid, is that do-able?
I currently don't have a router bit to perform the edge treatment we are looking at, but that just gives me a reason to go buy one.
I've got the handle pieces cut out, I'll post pics once I get them glued up tonight.
Here is a small preview. Still making changes to the design as it comes together. Even I don't know what the final product will look like.
Hey guys... sorry here ya go:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=113542
Dewey
"Everything is better with Inlay or Marquetry!"
Belton,
Be aware that if you add the cove molding I sent along, then the cove molding itself takes up 1/2 inch of overhang, You then must add to that the overhang that will look good with the edge treatment you choose.
Note also that the hinges are not anywhere near the top, but hinge 1 1/2 inches BELOW the top!
Mike
From the workshop under the staircase, Clinton Township, MI
Semper Audere!
Thanks for straightening me out Mike. I feel like a dufas now. The lid really doesn't have any bearing on the hinges after all.
I had looked at the cove molding you provided and thought about it being 1/2". I like the cove for transition purposes but it might make the lid too big. I will look at it and see what the possibility of making the cove a little smaller to look right. I should be able to take a 1/16th or so off each side to make the difference. If I do that and add an 1/8th to the lid it might work out alright.
Let me know if you have any more suggestions.
Belton,
The only suggestion I have at this five minutes is: MORE PICTURES! (GRINNNNN!)
Mike
From the workshop under the staircase, Clinton Township, MI
Semper Audere!
Guys,
I haven't done much to the SU file lately. Is it time to update it more? Would it help everyone?
My mistake. I looked back at the old posts and see that. Still, I wonder if the hinges should run up to the top rather than stop short? Maybe mimick the shape of the handle on the front and run up to a flat on the underside of the lid so they appear to be sculpted for this piece, not just screwed on hardware?
Larry,
I like that idea! mimicking the shape of the handle with the hinges.
Mike
From the workshop under the staircase, Clinton Township, MI
Semper Audere!
Made some progress yesterday and today. Small design change along the way. It was too wide so I trimmed it down a little. I added a double thickness piece of blackwood to the top and bottom.
More pics of handle in the process stage. I angle cut the front from the base at a 10 degree angle at this point because it was easier to work with a pretty much square piece. Then cut the sides back at a 13 degree angle to meet up around the same point as the front angle.
Then capped off the sides with more blackwood and cut/sanded back to shape. I still need to add some chamfer/radius to all the edges.
I need to make a trip to the store and pick up a profile bit to finish up the top edge treatment.
Has anyone thought about how we are going to attach the top to the box?
I am going to cut the handle where the box opening is...question is - do you think I should cap it with a piece of blackwood in between? I'm not sure that would look right with the pattern of the handle. Do you think there needs to be a magnet in that spot or somewhere else? Sorry it's taking so long...I want to make sure it looks good and turns out right.