BLO then Shellac then Laquer or Polly?

[Howard Acheson]

Your finishing schedule is fine with the caviet suggested by Shaun. Don't soak the surface with the BLO. It only takes a slight amount to "pop" the grain. Also, maple is not a very porous surface so be sure to wipe it as dry as you can. My preference is to let the BLO cure for at least two days. I know some feel that is too long when over coating with shellac but it seems like the safe course to me.

Finally, I agree with Steve that shellac alone would be just fine for your project. No need for the additional complication of the slow drying top coat like varnish.

[Dave Haughs]

Finally, I agree with Steve that shellac alone would be just fine for your project. No need for the additional complication of the slow drying top coat like varnish.

Is the pre-mixxed shellac just as good as using flakes as long as it is not old? I don't see why it wouldn't be.

[David Christopher]

I have no good reason, just going on the suggestions here. You're recommending this in addition to the BLO right? not as a replacement. This kinda goes back to my initial thought I guess.

I dont use BLO as I see no purpose... the laquer will " pop the grain " and you can finish to higher that automotive quality

[Dave Haughs]

Well I guess I will just have to try both methods.

[Steve Schoene]

Pre-mixed shellac is OK if fresh. The SealCoat is dewaxed shellac. It's just shellac and works as well as top coat as as sealer. It is a blonde shellac, not the lightest blonde but still fairly light.

The other two, Amber and Clear both contain wax. Amber is a rather darker orange color--you would notice the color. Clear is very clear, but has been bleached with the result that it isn't quite as durable or water resistent as the other shellacs.

Using flakes can give you assurance that the mix is fresh, and is available in a much wider range of colors, from a very light "ultra blonde" to darker shellacs such as garnet.

[Dave Haughs]

Alright, well I'll play with it this weekend and let you know how it goes. I'll try mixing and see where it gets me.

[Jim Becker]

Dave, why not deft sanding sealer and top coat with deft clear laquer ??? no hassle.... drying times are within minutes.... sandable in minutes... looks good strait from can or can polish to super high luster

The only major issue is that it's lacquer...and one should have a safe place to apply it and proper safety gear to protect yourself.

[Dave Haughs]

Well I went BLO then Shellac and I am VERY happy with the results. I put 3 coats of 2# cut on it and it looks really nice. I just finished it last night so I haven't waxed it or anything. I'll have to get a shot of it soon.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Dave....Congrats! As you can tell, finishing has a multitude of possibilities. Find the method that works for you and stick with it but don't be afraid to try other methods occasionally on scraps, of course. On myturnings I regularly used BLO, Zinsser's Sealcoat (dewaxed) and then depending on the intended use, I may put on lacquer. I friction apply these all on the lathe. Again....find a method that works for you....stick with it but don't be afraid to try new alternatives...on scraps first!

[Dewayne Reding]

I dont use BLO as I see no purpose... the laquer will " pop the grain " and you can finish to higher that automotive quality

Your family may ask if you've been painting cars in the basement. Deft lacquer is pretty noxious IMO. I really like lacquer for the reasons you state, but it is a summer use finish for me so I can do it in the garage and open the doors after a few minutes.