Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 25

Thread: Color Fill for Wine Bottle????..Help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Irving, TX
    Posts
    185

    Color Fill for Wine Bottle????..Help

    I have a large order for some wine bottles to laser engrave with color fill. I need to meet the same quality as in the image. Any recommendations, it almost looks like a epoxy time color fill. At minimum I was considering an oil base paint but someone had recommended a hand rub color for the writing potion of the job but I am more concerned about the larger fairway and green.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Phil Garcia; 02-08-2009 at 12:52 PM.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]SR Engraving
    Irving, TX
    Epilog 35W, Corel X3 AND "How about those COWBOYS"...this will be the year???

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Irving, TX
    Posts
    185
    Special Thanks to Gregg Vaughn, Angus Hines, Pete Simmons and everyone else that contributed to the string of post about marketing to the wineries. It gave me some ideas and I went out and started knocking doors and I have a large order for wine glasses and now the Golf Course wine bottles that the winery has to provide to the golf courses in the area. Thanks again to all.

    Winery String: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...98516#poststop
    Last edited by Phil Garcia; 02-09-2009 at 10:59 AM.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]SR Engraving
    Irving, TX
    Epilog 35W, Corel X3 AND "How about those COWBOYS"...this will be the year???

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Cape Town, South Africa
    Posts
    3,922
    You gonna have problems with that ...beeg problems
    The best way to tackle that job is to laser a mask and blast the bottle so you get some depth in the engraving and then color fill using masking tape to mask areas you dont want filled. Its gonna be a painstaking and painful job...personally I wouldn't touch it unless I was getting very high $ for it.

    I would actually do it another way , considering I have a digial printer that prints on vinyl and die cuts it , I would print it , then overlaminate it with a soft matte and then die cut a "label" and just apply it.
    Rodney Gold, Toker Bros trophies, Cape Town , South Africa :
    Roland 2300 rotary . 3 x ISEL's ..1m x 500mm CnC .
    Tekcel 1200x2400 router , 900 x 600 60w Shenui laser , 1200 x 800 80w Reci tube Shenhui Laser
    6 x longtai lasers 400x600 60w , 1 x longtai 20w fiber
    2x Gravo manual engravers , Roland 540 large format printer/cutter. CLTT setup
    1600mm hot and cold laminator , 3x Dopag resin dispensers , sandblasting setup, acid etcher

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Irving, TX
    Posts
    185
    Thanks Rodne but the overlay is not an option. They want it to match the bottle in the pic. I know it's going to be a pain but the order is so large that I just don't want to say no. I was planning to reduce the size of the golf course hole since the pic is not the exactly the one they want. The golf course hole for my project is some what smaller, thank goodness. Also, special thanks to you Rodne, your ideas on the winery string give me a big boost.
    Last edited by Phil Garcia; 02-09-2009 at 11:01 AM.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]SR Engraving
    Irving, TX
    Epilog 35W, Corel X3 AND "How about those COWBOYS"...this will be the year???

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Cape Town, South Africa
    Posts
    3,922
    That bottle in the pic isnt lasered , its "sand carved" , if you dont have a sandblasting cabinet - you will not get good results trying to laser and fill.
    If you are determined to try , then you need to laser it to control the fracturing a laser induces.
    Glass is essentailly engraved by a laser when impurities in it expand and that expansion (due to the thermal shock of the lasers heat) fracture the surrounding material. Laser light from your laser actually passes thru glass.
    Anyway , the idea is to control the fracturing and thus you can either damp the glass with masking material or laser thry wet tissue etc to try to get a decent even surface for large areas.
    Rub n buff or paint will work as colouring agents.
    The problem you will have is with dams - the unengraved area that seperates 2 areas of colour so they dont run into each other - your laser will not engrave the glass deep enough for these dams to be effective.
    Each of these bottles would take , at an estimate , apart from lasering , a further 4 man hours to complete.
    If this is a large order , you will have a big problem delivering more than lets say , 5-7 bottles a day , as a one man show.
    As I say , if you arent going to blast these to get a decent surfaced and deep etch , dont touch em.
    You can also chemically etch these by using a laser to ablate a mask and then using a glass etching cream or for a deep etch , hydroflouric acid which is VERY VERY nasty stuff. Which ever way you go , the filling of these is going to be painstakingly slow.
    What are you charging per bottle - I wouldnt touch this at anything under $60 per one
    Sometimes you just have to say no...
    Rodney Gold, Toker Bros trophies, Cape Town , South Africa :
    Roland 2300 rotary . 3 x ISEL's ..1m x 500mm CnC .
    Tekcel 1200x2400 router , 900 x 600 60w Shenui laser , 1200 x 800 80w Reci tube Shenhui Laser
    6 x longtai lasers 400x600 60w , 1 x longtai 20w fiber
    2x Gravo manual engravers , Roland 540 large format printer/cutter. CLTT setup
    1600mm hot and cold laminator , 3x Dopag resin dispensers , sandblasting setup, acid etcher

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Irving, TX
    Posts
    185
    I was thinking about making the dams as large as possible between colors so that it's a little easier to control the color separation. Do think using a mask per color and spraying an enamel gloss paint would work also??
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]SR Engraving
    Irving, TX
    Epilog 35W, Corel X3 AND "How about those COWBOYS"...this will be the year???

  7. #7

    Yellow color fill

    I have a similar possible large order. They want a small yellow logo on wine glasses.

    I have tried many things including some test yellow cermark supplied by them. No luck so far. Some things look ok at first but will not survive one dishwasher cycle.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Irving, TX
    Posts
    185
    A friend has recommended doing it with a air brush, but I don't know about that.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]SR Engraving
    Irving, TX
    Epilog 35W, Corel X3 AND "How about those COWBOYS"...this will be the year???

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Marion, IL
    Posts
    130

    Fancy wine bottle maker

    Phil - take a look at this link. I believe what they produce is close to what you are wanting to do. Maybe it will give you some ideas. On the "About" page there are some videos of the process.



    http://www.freshnwdesign.com/gallery-wineries.php
    Joe Hayes
    CRS

    Epilog Legend EXT 75 Watt, Epilog Legend 70 Watt,
    Xenetech 16x25 Rotary, Vinyl cutters, ect.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Irving, TX
    Posts
    185
    Thanks Joe, that gave me some great ideas. I believe I will have to airbrush the larger areas, i.e. fairway and green... and the smaller areas with a small paint brush. I might have to have someone sandblast the bottles for me and I will just paint them. Any ideas on what a sandblaster would cost for this type of job??
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]SR Engraving
    Irving, TX
    Epilog 35W, Corel X3 AND "How about those COWBOYS"...this will be the year???

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Garcia View Post
    Any ideas on what a sandblaster would cost for this type of job??
    My suggestion would be to have someone else do them. Having said that quality control may well be a major issue though. Specially if the bottles are full.

    Cheap sandblasters are just that. The important things are the pickup tube design and the gun nozzle (ceramic) design.

    You will also need a good air compressor for at least 10cfm at 90+psi. I have a 9cfm and it runs almost constantly with the blast cabinet.

    It is messy dusty work. The blaster also needs a dust collector which is like a large vacuum cleaner.

    Look for one with a cone-shaped (round or square) bottom with drain door at the pointy end for emptying the media when it is worn out or you need to change grit size. Without it you will be lifting the media out with a cup and then tipping the thing upside down. Hard won experience there.
    Dave J
    Forums: Where all too often, logic is the first casualty.

  12. #12
    Phil

    You might want to consider buying a sand carving outfit. They are nowhere near as expensive as a laser and they are clearly superior for glass, marble, granite and brick.

    Note how much prep there is before blasting and after painting. Painting is the easy part.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  13. #13
    A good sandblasting system will have a pressure pot not a siphon system.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Innisfil Ontario Canada
    Posts
    4,019
    Have you priced this to them yet? I'm with Rodney on the 'minimum' price.. These are not just a job, they are individual works of art, that will be VERY time consuming and expensive to produce.. Personally, unless they are willing to pay 'a lot' of money per bottle(as a individual work of art), I would give them another alternative, that will make you some good money, and give them almost exactly the look they have now at a much lower price.. It's called a 'double bump label' and looks like screen printing..
    http://www.discountlabels.com/info_uv_doublebump.html
    Epilog 24TT(somewhere between 35-45 watts), CorelX4, Photograv(the old one, it works!), HotStamping, Pantograph, Vulcanizer, PolymerPlatemaker, Sandblasting Cabinet, and a 30 year collection of Assorted 'Junque'

    Every time you make a typo, the errorists win

    I Have to think outside the box.. I don't fit in it anymore


    Experience is a wonderful thing.
    It enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.


    Every silver lining has a cloud around it




  15. #15
    Dear Phil,

    A job like this will never touch the laser. Watch the video in Joe's post, sandblasting is the way this is done. I have both a laser and sandblast cabinet. Sandblasting has it's own challenges. Here are a few to condsider, you need a big compressor that will run on 220.(2 stage is best) the mask and artwork are done on a photo light type system, then you need to apply the mask, registation can be fun, any wrinkes and off it comes before you even try to blast. In addition the rest of the bottle that does not have the mask on it needs to be taped. Next is the color fill, this job looks like airbrush and hand paint. I guess my point is, this is a very time consuming process with lots of chances for errors and defects. Good luck and let us know how you do!
    Mark Plotkin
    Epilog Mini 45w X3

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •