Sharpining system

[John Dingman]

I an in need of a sharpining system and was thinking about the Tormek. Any thoughts on this system? thoughts on other systems?
Thanks
Dave

Dave,

I went to Farm and Fleet and bought an 8" slow speed grinder, and made my own sharpening system with some shop scraps based on the wolverine set up.

Here it is:



Here it is set up to do skews:



The jig is simple to make and it works great! I use the Aluminum Oxide Griniding wheels (120 Grit) and it puts a sharp edge on quick!

hth,
John

[Mike Stephens]

I did more or less the same thing and it works great. I am also going to build Jean Michaels side grind jig.

[Eric Teague]

For those of us on a severe budget, has anyone seen the HF Tormek Clone?

I figure that I can buy Tormek jigs for it.

[David Walser]

It must be twice as enjoyable using a jig you made yourself. Not only do you get a sharp tool, you have the satisfaction of using something you made yourself.

Without criticizing you, allow me to use your post as a jumping off point to discuss something that bothers me with the Wolverine and similar jigs. By referencing off the end of the tool's handle, the bevel angle is determined by the length of the tool. Which means, the bevel angle will change each time you sharpen (unless you reset the jig's arm every time ). Contrast this with Woodcut's Tru-Grind and similar jigs (including the Tormek) that references off the amount the tool's tip extends (protrudes) in front of the jig. With these type jigs, you mount the tool in the jig -- setting the proper protrusion -- and you can sharpen knowing you'll get virtually* the same bevel angle (assuming you've not reset the jig's arm since the last time you sharpened). It's a quicker and more accurate system.

*Note: I said "virtually the same bevel angle" because the bevel angle will change with the diameter of the wheel. As the diameter changes over time, you'll need to move the arm closer to the wheel. However, you can sharpen several times before needing to re-adjust the arm of the jig. From one shaprening to the next, there wouldn't be a noticable difference.

[David Walser]

For those of us on a severe budget, has anyone seen the HF Tormek Clone?

I figure that I can buy Tormek jigs for it.

There was a recent roundup of wet grinders and other non-traditional sharpening systems (such as the sharpfast) in one of the woodworking magazines. They thought the Tormek was the best system, but expensive. They liked the Grizzly clone of the Tormek (which is the same thing as the HF clone). However, they suggested using the Tormek jigs and warned that the clone was not nearly as good a machine. It's just an option if money is really tight.

[Bob Haverstock]

Filks,
I went to the St. Loius Show last weekend. I looked a the Wolverine Grinder that one of the venders was using, I was impressed. I couldn't find an inexpensive slow speed grinder at the show. I did break down and buy a Wolverine Vari-Grind attachment, but I just could bring myself to but the Wolverine Grinding Jig. I stopped by WoodCafter's and bout an 8" slow grinder there.

I have some project that I have to finish then I can build the sliding locaators for the system. I think 1"square tubing will be my material of choice.

BTW, what are your favored grinding wheels? Are any of you using set blocks with the Vari-Grind?

Thanks for the discussion and the photos

Bob

[Gordon Seto]

You can build this:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...opBuiltJig.pdf
This is what our Club grinder uses with the Varigrind side grind jig.

The OEM wheels of the Woodcraft slow speed grinder are decent. The quality control is not very consistent. Once in awhile there may be a unit that is out of balance badly that is beyond truing up. To save your frustration and trouble of exchanging. Open the box and plug it in for a test run. Do expect some very slight vibration; it may get better when you true up the wheels. You are not paying for a Baldor grinder; don't expect it to perform like one. When it is time to replace the wheels, I highly recommend the 46 and 80 grit Norton 3X "K" hardness wheels. They are the best value. They cut fast, run cool and hold up well. Almost as good as the Norton SG wheels which cost 3 times as much.
Another must have accessory is the T handle diamond dresser (there are other options, but this is the most cost effective). It is for truing and dressing the wheels. Use it often.When the metal particles embedded in the wheels, the glazed wheel would generate heat from the friction instead of sharpening.
http://www.oneway.ca/multi-media/wolverine_videos.htm
Always use light touch. Never press down on the tool. Learn how a tool grind should look like. None of the jigs is smart; you have to know where to stop and where to grind more.
Tool steel is expensive. When you have to change a grind, you don't have to change the whole bevel at one time. What matters is the edge; you can gradually morph into your grind a little at a time.