broke screw question

[aurelio alarcon]

A #6 stainless steel sheet metal screw (I found out later it was for sheet metal) broke off on me in some hard oak even though I pre-drilled. I can see the shaft of the screw in the hole. What are my options to remove the screw. The problem is that It will be difficult, if not impossible, to relocate it. Any help would help. Thanks.

[Mark Singer]

A #6 is small. Drill it out using a drill press and clamping the piece so it dosn't move. Then plug with a oak plut cut from the same wood. Turn the plug so the grain is running the same way. Then when the glue has dryed drill a hole for a new screw which should cove most of the plug.

[David Rose]

Aurelio, there are several options. You *might* use a small drill and Ease Out, but that is kind of "iffy" since the screw is probably very tight and may just break or strip the Ease Out.

If the location is such that it won't mess up appearance, either buy one of the "tube with teeth" type extractors or make one. Then you could plug the remaining hole with a dowel of maple glued in and redrill in the same location. Once the larger hole is deep enough, you might be able to grasp the screw with needle nose pliers so the plug doesn't have to go so deep. If you use a plug cutter to create the "dowel" you can likely match the grain fairly well.

David

A #6 stainless steel sheet metal screw (I found out later it was for sheet metal) broke off on me in some hard oak even though I pre-drilled. I can see the shaft of the screw in the hole. What are my options to remove the screw. The problem is that It will be difficult, if not impossible, to relocate it. Any help would help. Thanks.

[aurelio alarcon]

Aurelio, there are several options. You *might* use a small drill and Ease Out, but that is kind of "iffy" since the screw is probably very tight and may just break or strip the Ease Out.

If the location is such that it won't mess up appearance, either buy one of the "tube with teeth" type extractors or make one. Then you could plug the remaining hole with a dowel of maple glued in and redrill in the same location. Once the larger hole is deep enough, you might be able to grasp the screw with needle nose pliers so the plug doesn't have to go so deep. If you use a plug cutter to create the "dowel" you can likely match the grain fairly well.

David

David This might work for me. Unfortunately Mark, I can't use a drill press because it is already mounted to the wall (I was installing an oven).

[Lee Schierer]

If you own a dremel tool, carefully cut a slot in the part you can see. Use a small tipped soldering iron to heat the screw up, then use a small flat screw driver to to turn it out backwards.

For future use, even when you have drilled pilot holes, screws have a tough time going into oak and other hard woods. I sugggest that you lubricate each and every screw with beeswax before trying to install them. Just firmly drag the threads across a piece before inserting the tip in the hole. You will find that the torque necessary to insert the screw will be considerably less and you will break screws far less often. Do not use oil or soap as they will stain the surrounding wood.

[aurelio alarcon]

If you own a dremel tool, carefully cut a slot in the part you can see. Use a small tipped soldering iron to heat the screw up, then use a small flat screw driver to to turn it out backwards.

For future use, even when you have drilled pilot holes, screws have a tough time going into oak and other hard woods. I sugggest that you lubricate each and every screw with beeswax before trying to install them. Just firmly drag the threads across a piece before inserting the tip in the hole. You will find that the torque necessary to insert the screw will be considerably less and you will break screws far less often. Do not use oil or soap as they will stain the surrounding wood.

I own a Craftsman cut all tool. It is similar to the dremel tool. What do you use to cut the slot for the screwdriver, a small cutting disk?

[Jim Becker]

I've used a "screw extractor" for this problem...basically a hollow "drill" that cores around the broken screw. You then fill the hole with wood that matches the original, re-drill and re-screw. In that manner, you can position the "new" screw in exactly the same location if necessary. You can buy these extractors or make them from commonly available split keys with a little filing to create a "tooth". This really works great for small screws like this since they are hard to get out by other means.

[Daniel Rabinovitz]

Aurelio
I purchased a set of "extractors" from McFeely's
There are five (5) in the set
They look like "roll pins" with cutting points on one end.
You made me go look for them, and now I have familiarized my mind, once again, as to their location - ready for action. Thanks! They are the set with the red plastic ends on the hollow plastic see through tube, about 3" long in the "all purpose" drawer of the router cabinet. Ah-ha!
Daniel

[Jim Becker]

They look like "roll pins" with cutting points on one end.

That's what I was ineffectively trying to describe. I just couldn't remember the "roll pin" name! Thanks, Daniel.

[aurelio alarcon]

I am going to look for those hollowed out drills or "roll pin" screw extracters. This would be perfect.