Product to repair exterior trim with a small rotten area?

[dennis thompson]

There is a large piece of exterior trim on my house which has a small (about 6"x6") area of rot in it. Can anyone suggest a good product to repair the rot?
Thanks
Dennis

[Mike Cutler]

Dennis

I've only seen the product demo'd at home shows, but if your exterior trim is wood take a look at Rot Doctor. I'm going to be trying some out this spring.

http://www.rotdoctor.com/

[Michael Wildt]

Repairing stuff like that can be challenging. All depends on where the problem area is located and its orientation horizontal/vertical. Ideally you would want to cut the rot out as much as possible then patch with a new solid piece of wood. Though sometimes that is not possible. Or replace the piece completely with either a piece of wood or Azek trim (if not load bearing).

There is several products that will penetrate the remaining wood and making it hard. Where after a woodfiller can be applied. I have tried the Minwax product and that have worked fine for me (small problems).

This old house have on occasion demonstrated more professional products so visiting their web site might give some ideas.

One product is bondo, from the automotive industry. I personally do not like that product since I do not see it moving with the wood.

[Robert Parrish]

I just repaired a large area around my front door that was dry rotted. I tried repairing it over the years but nothing worked so this time I just put my Sawzall to work and cut out the rot and replaced it with new wood. They wanted $5000 to replace the door but now I'm good for a few more years!

[Richard Wolf]

I like to use Minwax, high performance wood filler.
http://www.minwax.com/products/wood_...od_filler.html
It is basically the same as Bondo auto dent repair in a wood tone.

Richard

[Jack Porter]

I've used wood epox and liquid wood by adatron

http://www.abatron.com/cms/buildinga...intenance.html

check out the data sheets to see which one fits your situation. I fixed four sills with wood epox at my house three years ago and have not had any problem.

Just a heads up, it's expensive.

[Jimmie Mayfield]

Cutting out the rotted part and replacing with new wood is your best bet. It can be a little tricky if the pieces have custom routing but often, exterior trim is rather generic. If the piece is not very complicated, you can do it in an hour. A 16-18ga finish nailer will pay for itself here (it's real easy to knock things out of alignment if you use a hammer). Use bondo to hide the transition from old to new. Some paint and people won't know it's been repaired unless they look closely.

Since the old piece was rotted, you obviously have mosture present. If you want your repairs to last, make sure you seal the new wood before installing. You can also treat the new wood with a anti-rot agents. Shops that cater to boat builders will have stuff for this. You can also make your own from borax (a soap), boric acid (roach powder) and ethylene or propylene glycol (antifreeze). Google for the recipe and instructions.

[Jason White]

www.advancedrepair.com

There is a large piece of exterior trim on my house which has a small (about 6"x6") area of rot in it. Can anyone suggest a good product to repair the rot?
Thanks
Dennis

[Ed Calkins]

Not sure exactly what your repair area looks like or needs but I have done lots of old boat restoration and the best product for such repairs that I have used is called penetrating epoxy and is from Smith Bros in Richmond, CA --- lots of places carry their products such as http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/

It works! Ed

[John Bush]

I've used Minwax Wood Hardener. Clear our as much of the soft wood as possible, soak in a coat or two of the hardener, then repair with a wood putty. I have used the epoxy type fillers and they have lasted a long time exposed to weather.

[Dewey Torres]

I have followed some of the rot stopping products listed here with bondo and been very successful and it paints/sands so well you can't tell there was ever a rot.

Only on small apps though!

[Neal Clayton]

www.advancedrepair.com

second this. i also use his glazing compound.

[Guy Roland]

My 2 cents.

All these products are probably better than what I use, I want to make this clear.

I'm also old and cheap and I've been using bondo for years, I used to paint houses for a living. You can buy a gallon at wallmart for $15, it lasts forever, the dryer will harden but you can buy just that.

I just clean out loose wood, mix a batch, cram it into the hole leave it a little rounded so you can sand it smooth. I don't know if this is necessary, but like I said I'm old, I spot prime with an exterior oil base primer than finish with whatever is necessary. I actually remolded a cornice anout 20 years ago on my house and it's still looks good.

[Jon Grider]

I like the old tried and true Durham's Water Putty. I've used it in interior and exterior apps and it has held up well. It also is inexpensive.

[Peter Quinn]

I like abatron wood epox and consolidater, and I like the Smith products from Jamestown, both work great and last longer than the wood they are replacing. I've used them both for window restoration. My Dad uses Durham's Hard Rock putty, seems to work well.

I caution against bondo for exterior repairs that will see water. It is not effected by water but it absorbs it, holds it, then sheds the paint on top of it over time. My results with it have been poor. Love it for interior paint grade, not so much for exterior.