Originally Posted by
Joel Moskowitz
you might think that after a few thousand saws or so I might have learned something - but I guess I'm just thick.
You folks must be making more saws than I suspected, that's a lot of saws.
I still am wondering about the tension aspect, in how a back can keep a plate properly tensioned by using tension? The clamping of the folded back ensures that the back will stay on the plate, it only applies that at the top of the plate where it is attached.
How can this "tension" folks speak of really have an effect on the plate? What type of tension would the blade have, anywhere on the plate?
Seems that if there is any tension, it's because of stress induced from the back in trying to hold the plate in a specific manor, against it's natural lay. I'm not sure how a folded back would do that any different than a slotted back, it is to keep the plate straight after all.
In a slotted back, the plate fits precisely in the slot of the back, and the rigidity of the back keeps the plate from changing. We all know that there is some degree is non-straightness of a plate, happens to all saws. This doesn't require the back be removed and/or replaced in order to true the plate up.
One aspect that has not been mentioned is the fact that the plate does in fact move in a folded back, and that in itself can cause tension to be placed on the plate that would normally not be there, if the plate and back change the relationship between each other. That happens when the plate moves to a different spot, and it is impossible to manage that tension along the fold, AFAICT. So, in some ways it seems that having the ability to remove/reposition the back to get it back into true, is the very fact that it will move to begin with, which in turn will apply tension.
I have not noticed any plates getting to a point that they can't be trued up without removing the back. Heat will allow the plate to be removed from the plate if there is really a need.
I have seen a good number of slotted saws, and have not been able to say that they have been twisted in any way, most of them seem as straight or straighter than a folder back after a given number of years. And if it was, it is possible to straighten the plate without removing the back anyway.
Bearing Bronze is about 50% stronger than Brass Alloy 360, the common brass used for slotting backs, so it is possible to have a smaller piece of material as I have noted, to provide the same capability with a smaller piece of material. There is very minimal difference, albeit noticeable between a 3/16" thick x 1/2" bronze back, and a 1/4" x 1/2" bronze back of the same length. I really don't feel that is crucial, as it is minimal.
Mike made a good point on the walnut being lighter, I forgot that you use walnut for your handles. I have come to the conclusion that walnut is easier to work with, one reason I like it. However, it is also not a strong as other woods like hard maple, and as such will be easier to knock horns off in the future. I agree that could have more impact on overall weight as Mike points out, but the noticeable weight for me is the weight in regard to the hang, or how the toe feels in relation to the saw while holding it. Some feel a heavier saw will make the cutting easier, but I have very light saws that cut fine, providing they have sharp teeth.
It's all good, folded or slotted, as long as the saw functions and does it's job, there is no reason any craftsman can't produce good work with either.
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Life is about what your doing today, not what you did yesterday! Seize the day before it sneaks up and seizes you!
Alan - http://www.traditionaltoolworks.com:8080/roller/aland/