#7 vs #8?

[David Keller NC]

By the way, Bill - You're pretty safe from making a "wrong" decision here. Unless you make a really a bad move and pay way too much for a Stanely #8 that has lots of problems (e-bay's a great palce to make such a mistake, BTW), you can sell any #8 for just about what you paid for it, whether that be a Lie-Nielsen #8 or an antique.

[Bill Franklin]

Good Point David, rarely am I in a position to make no bad decision. I appreciate everyone's point of view on the. It is a help.

Bill

[Bill Houghton]

I ordered a 6.

The No. 6 size has been under-respected for a long time. Great size, great tool. I own two (Craftsman and, yet to be refurbished, Wards Master).

When I had the choice, some years back, between a No. 8 and a No. 7 at the same price, I chose the No. 8 (figuring I was getting more iron per dollar). While I'm 6'1" and (when at my right weight as opposed to, say, now, when I need to get back on the diet) 182 pounds, I didn't inherit my dad's upper body strength; but I find the 8 to be a fine tool, and am glad I popped for the extra size.

[Danny Burns]

The weight of the plane being too heavy, is a moot point if the weight works for you!

Since you are not going to e buying right away, I would suggest finding a way to try the two planes out, and you will know the right thing to do.
At the woodworking shows there is usually a booth or two that allow you to test drive a plane on some wood.

[Dave Spaeder]

When it comes down to it, the 7 and the 8 are interchangeable -- they both do the same thing in the same way. I always feel like I got my exercise when I use my no-name 8 even if it seems like all I have to do is get it started and then hang on 'til it stops. But my favorite plane is a #7, and it will do just about anything.

In other words, you can't go wrong with one over the other. Maybe if you look around a little, you'll find one that is such a good deal that it'll make up your mind for you.