Are you planning on using something like Jameel's rollers for your parallel guides? After seeing the video of how easily the vice moves in and out, made me a believer. Great job!
Ya know I almost ordered all the parts, but when it came down to it, I just didn't want all the extra stuff on it. Plus there's no real way to implement rollers on the sliding vice without moving the guide up and shortening the front chop. That asymmetry would drive me crazy. As it is, the action is okay. The vices will open and close enough to clamp and release whatever size stock you're working with, after that they bind. However, if I just toe under the front chop and lift it a bit, it moves pretty well.
That was Jameel's idea as well. Obviously the tail board is way to long to stand on end to saw. I used my jigsaw with a fine toothed blade and focused on making the cuts as straight as possible. Then came in with a paring chisel from the end grain side, again trying to make the tails straight, removing any dips or humps.
The endcap I cut just like a regular half blind. Saw down (I saw past the baseline for half blinds) and then chop.
Like everything with this bench, not technically difficult but complicated by the large size of all the components.
I was thinking (or not thinking) that you had run the dovetail the full length of the endcap. After looking at the blog you referenced, I see the dovetails are only on the ends of the endcap. It is hard for me to see the path to building this using a book etc to figure it out. The cutout made on the underside of the top for the screw, where did you find the plan for this?
You are correct. There's a large MT joint on the rear part of the top and endcap. That's responsible for keeping the cap and wagon vice hardware in line with the top. The DT is cut only in the front lamination is helps hold the front end of the endcap to the bench, resisting the force of the wagon vice.
The canyon for the wagon vice hardware was built in during construction. The size was determined by the wagon vice hardware which I designed. I'll post again when I finally get the vice finished and installed.
Well, thie bench is finally done. What a project. Here are some pictures and details of the wagon vice. Again, Jameel's wagon vice was the inspiration here, but there were a couple of things I didn't like about the Benchcrafted vice. If you're thinking of doing something like this yourself, you're not going to save any money over buying the Benchcrafted vice. I knew that going is, so not a huge issue. I'm just particular .
Vice itself is 1 1/4" 4tpi left hand Acme thread. The wheel end has been turned down to 0.750" and the other end is supported in big Delrin bushing. This keeps the entire shaft supported without relying on the dogblock. All the other hardware is 0.500" 1018 steel waterjet cut (www.bigbluesaw.com). The flange contains a bronze bushing and has bronze thrust bearings on either side. Handwheel is pinned with a 5/16" down pin.
Prototype dog block. Block rides in grooves in the canyon. Delrin strips are snug fit in the dog block and slip fit in the groove. This keeps them captive, yet allows the block to slide back and forth smoothly. Someone had posted that this is the system LN uses in their wagon vice. I though it was a good idea, and it works great.
I can't believe some woodworker nearby wouldn't come help you for what he could learn by working with you. If you were in Galveston County, I would be calling you. Of course, I'm over the hill also and we probably would both need help.
Beautiful bench. And I second some of the earlier posts regarding workbench threads. I'm on the edge of making my first real bench and each bench someone builds seems to add to the pool of ideas on what to do and/or how to do it.
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. Finish is oil/varnish blend with a coat of wax on the top.
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