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Thread: Padilla's Garage Gut/Remodel

  1. #46
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    Apr 2004
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    Tampa, FL
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    937
    Just a few ideas, (some goofier than others):

    [1] There is no such thing as enough storage space, so be sure not to neglect that space above the roll-up garage door. Great place to stored wood etc.

    [2] How long has it been since wifey had new Maytags to play with? I ask because those stacking units take up only half as much floor space, which would further reduce the space needed for the partitioned area.

    [3] Speaking of the partitioned area, how about some kind of roll-up door?

  2. #47
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    Nov 2003
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    Prescott, Arizona
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    610
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Olexa
    Martha Stewart's agent just called and expressed interest in your curtain. With your permission, she'd like to include in her new line for this fall for both Big Lots and KMart!! Excuse the humor, You truly are an excellent woodworker and its not too often we have an opportunity to chide you. G Luck w your project!! Jerry
    Jerry, apparently it aint gonna look too good in cell block H........the walls are yellow and padded :-)

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    SF Bay Area, CA
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    Well, I have one more section of the garage to get the drwall off of and that is the vaulted ceiling portion. It will also be the most hellish as each stud bay or cavity is filled with blown-in insulation. For the life of me I cannot figure out why insulation was put in here...no where else in this garage was insulated. It won't be fun and it'll be a big mess--I'll push everything I can out of the garage and I'll need to do most of the work with the garage door shut. Sigh....

    Well I got a nasty shock today in the first pic! A woodworker's (and home-owners) worst nightmare: Termites!!! The location is very surprising as you can tell from the other two pics.

    I'm going to call in an exterminator and have them take a look. It could have been done and finished years ago or they could still be digging in. Sigh....
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Geneva, Swisscheeseland
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    1,501
    [QUOTE=Dan Stuewe]

    It also seems that you have to go pretty much top-of-the line to be able to handle two major hot water tasks at the same time. It has been awhile, but I seem to recall that only the top model sold at Home Depot (a Bosch) could handle a shower and anything else.

    QUOTE]

    Just a quick warning about that $950 water heater. It is NOT made by Bosch. It is made by a Japanese company that licenses the Aquastar name from Bosch. This unit has a three year warranty, not the 15 year warranty offered by Bosch.

    Dan
    A flute without holes, is not a flute. A donut without a hole, is a Danish.

  5. #50
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    near Charlotte, NC
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    336

    Talking Disappearing, sliding door

    Keep those curtain pictures coming!!!!

    Chris, how about a disappearing, sliding door for the laundry area?
    My parent's interior kitchen doors slide back into the walls and out of the way.
    That would be killer for a laundry area!!!
    And....
    There won't be a door to get in the way or to keep a path clear for it to swing open...
    For kickers....
    Put a small window in the door and a matching curtain!!!
    Gary
    Bluegrass - Finger Pickin Good!

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Grand Marais, MN. A transplant from Minneapolis
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    5,513
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Padilla
    Well, I have one more section of the garage to get the drwall off of and that is the vaulted ceiling portion. It will also be the most hellish as each stud bay or cavity is filled with blown-in insulation. For the life of me I cannot figure out why insulation was put in here...no where else in this garage was insulated. It won't be fun and it'll be a big mess--I'll push everything I can out of the garage and I'll need to do most of the work with the garage door shut. Sigh....

    Well I got a nasty shock today in the first pic! A woodworker's (and home-owners) worst nightmare: Termites!!! The location is very surprising as you can tell from the other two pics.

    I'm going to call in an exterminator and have them take a look. It could have been done and finished years ago or they could still be digging in. Sigh....
    Chris, A leaf blower or furnace cleaning company can make short order of blown in insulation. If you use the VAC part of a leaf blower you will need a ground discharge, especially with the old blowing wool and fiber glass. Celulose(sp) wasn't so bad. Have fun and protect your lungs.
    Last edited by Tyler Howell; 07-16-2004 at 1:45 PM.
    TJH
    Live Like You Mean It.



    http://www.northhouse.org/

  7. #52
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    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Chris, give some thought to "not" pulling down the ceiling drywall where you have blown-in insulation. Not only will it create a mess, but it's a pretty efficient insulation method and there is little point to replacing it unless you absolutely have to have access to that area for some reason.

    Hiring out your drywall is a great idea, but be sure to "book" a contractor soon...they often have schedules many weeks in advance if you want a real drywall crew as opposed to a handyman. I had to book a month in advance for our kitchen job...the only major thing I sub-ed out.

    Bummer on the bugs...but finding them "now" is much better than finding them "later"!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #53
    Chris,

    WOW! Keep going buddy! I've skimmed most of the thread. A couple points that came to mind. First becareful enclosing the washer dryer. To make enough room for folding, etc... the enclosure will really grow and take a chunk out of the shop. You might really impress the SWMBO by moving them upstairs. We retrofited our 104 year old house from the basement to the upstairs and there is nothing happier then a wife (or husband) that doesn't have to go in the basement (or garage) to do the wash. Plus you gain back some shop space.

    I also like the skylight idea. With the shed type roof, installation would be fairly easy (and it looks like you still have enough slope). Since your a bit close to you neighbor, the natural light would be awesome. I have windows on all four sides of my shop (although one looks into the garage). I would have to lose them even to pick up some wall space in my very small one car garage.

    Lastly, don't count out knotty pine t&g carsiding for your walls. It goes up very fast, looks great, and only will add a little more cost. I did my shop a few years back and love the look, plus I'm able to hang medium weight items anywhere (heavy stuff still goes into the studs)

    This is an older pic:



    Good Luck, looks like your making a dent.

    John

  9. #54
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    Mar 2004
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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    Chris, I agree with John that you should make every effort to relocate the washer and drier into the house itself. If it were me, I would even relocate an interior wall to acomplish this. While you are at it, you can make a proper laundry room with a sink and storage.

    John, the pine really does look good and having wood walls firm enough to hang light things upon is a real advantage. It looks so good that I reconsidered my choice of thin plywood painter white for the walls of my shop. But, the thin white walls won (partly becuase I already have the plywood and the paint).

  10. #55
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    Apr 2004
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    Geneva, Swisscheeseland
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    Chris. Is your dryer, furnace, or water heater gas powered? You might not want to make the laundry area too tight. The equipment needs good air flow to function properly. You can always add a louvered vent for the laundry room to increase airflow.
    A flute without holes, is not a flute. A donut without a hole, is a Danish.

  11. #56
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    May 2004
    Location
    N Illinois
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    4,602

    A Bump in the road

    Chris Sorry to hear about the termites! (they like WOOd too), I'd reco getting a professional to address. Pretty hard to DIY. Your projects is taking several turns but it'll work out!

  12. #57
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    Mar 2003
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    Chris, when I've tried to sub out a small drywall job like that, it has been a little difficult. Drywall companies you find in the yellow pages want to tackle big jobs. They mostly won't even come to quote the small job. If you force them to do a small job, their overhead eats them and you alive, and the job get very expensive for you. What you really want to is find some guy who does drywall for one of those companies, and wants a little extra cash. He can do it on a Saturday for lots less than the drywall company can. My best approach has been keeping an eye out for construction jobs in the neighborhood, and asking the guys working on the site.

    One more thought. You're not needing a beautiful job; this is a garage. Many garages are just "firetaped". That is, there's only one pass done with the drywall tape and mud. It is enough to hold the drywall together, but it isn't what you'd do inside the house.
    And one more thought. Most building codes require a fire-resistant wall between the garage and the rest of the house. It is usually done with 5/8" fire-resistant (Type-X) sheetrock on the garage side of the wall, or two layers of 1/2" rock. If you have habitable space above the garage, the garage ceiling may require something more, like two layers of type-x, but I'm not sure about that.
    Last edited by Jamie Buxton; 07-16-2004 at 6:34 PM.

  13. #58
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    May 2004
    Location
    N Illinois
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    Curtains wanted

    Martha Stewart just called again!! She still wants your curtains to brighten up her new cell!!

  14. #59
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
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    15,332
    Hi Guys,

    Thanks very much for all the notes. You sure have given me lots of food for thought here...more than I ever dreamed or perhaps wanted to hear!

    I kind took today off and went to see the premiere of I, Robot (excellent if you're into sci-fi) and then snuck into Harry Potter 3, POA (my second time seeing it) and pretty much killed the whole afternoon! It was fun as I reminded myself that I am on vacation!

    Tonight I hope to clear the remaining ceiling drywall. It has to come out as I will need it for wiring.

    There is no other place in the house for the washer and dryer so they are stuck pretty much where they were. I'll just neaten up the plubming a bit over there.

    Orkin is coming on Monday to check out the bug damage. This is not an expense I foresaw but I am finding I am quite shortsighted on a lot of things! Oh well...it is only time and money in the end....

    John, the pine is a very nice touch and highly apporpriate here. Since one of the walls was done in plywood (presumably for fire retardation?), I was thinking to do some sort of nice wall there. I think I want to put a nice workbench there (right next to the entry door into the house).

    Dan, the water heater, furnace, and dryer are all gas-powered.

    Jamie, thanks for the information...not something I wanted to hear but important nonetheless. I am getting the sinking feeling that I am biting off more than I can chew...we'll see. All the drywall I am ripping out of the garage is 5/8" but I've no clue if it is any special sort of drywall meant for fire-proofing/retardation.

    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  15. #60
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    Chris, the walls/ceilings that are common with your house (or any other house) will have to have fire-rated drywall put on before you do anything else. You can't use typical 1/2" stuff there! Another reason to sub it since the fire rated stuff is HEAVY.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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